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Homeroasters - Home Roasting Coffee Community » BUILDING A ROASTER » Electric and Gas Heat Sources

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Page 2 of 2: 12

Mean Time To Failure for FB Elements
jbrux4	#26 Posted on 02/21/2020 11:28 AM
1/4 Pounder Posts: 139 Joined: October 26, 2019	Quote renatoa wrote: Intrigued that the other terminal connection looks fine... I would investigate how/what are they different... I would try the following sandwich: - washer - element wire, cut to remove any rust and melted drops, then coiled around the screw in a single loop - washer - eyelet with AWG12 wire I've got my high temp male spade connectors and ceramic washers. My sandwich will be as follows: Ceramic element backer, element nichrome, male spade connector, ceramic washer, then screw head. I am thinking I need to get a new element that has a fully in tact nicrome hook. The way I see it, once I cut the degraded nichrome hook off, what's next? What materials and what method could I use to extend the nichrome wire back around the screw? R/ Jared


renatoa	#27 Posted on 02/21/2020 3:19 PM
Administrator Posts: 3005 Joined: September 30, 2016	Just pull some wire from the coil element itself, 2-3 cm shorter will not change dramatically the power.


jbrux4	#28 Posted on 02/21/2020 3:35 PM
1/4 Pounder Posts: 139 Joined: October 26, 2019	Quote renatoa wrote: Just pull some wire from the coil element itself, 2-3 cm shorter will not change dramatically the power. Gotcha. Thanks!!! I will be putting it all back together again and testing. I think the new set-up removes most of the issues/risks. R/ Jared


jbrux4	#29 Posted on 02/23/2020 3:38 PM
1/4 Pounder Posts: 139 Joined: October 26, 2019	I redid the connections and the elements work. The problem now is that I have one runaway element meaning that once it gets plugged in it heats up. The TC4 or SSR stopped regulating the power?!? The other element gets regulated just fine. What would be a good approach to determining or finding the issue? I have switched the elements to a particular power source, and the element that is hooked up to a particular run becomes the runaway element. I am putting my money on the SSR, but would def want to hear from the masters. Thanks. Here is the wiring diagram.... jbrux4 attached the following image: Edited by jbrux4 on 02/23/2020 3:58 PM R/ Jared


shortyjacobs	#30 Posted on 02/23/2020 3:49 PM
Newbie Posts: 44 Joined: September 24, 2014	When SSRs fail, they typically fail closed ("ON"). Likely, when the element shorted out and melted, it did some damage. The SSR may be toast. Try switching SSRs with each other - does the other element now run unregulated? Check the SSRs with a multimeter. When off, or disconnected, there should be no continuity across the high voltage side. If there is, that SSR is dead dead dead. -Keith


jbrux4	#31 Posted on 02/23/2020 4:00 PM
1/4 Pounder Posts: 139 Joined: October 26, 2019	Quote shortyjacobs wrote: When SSRs fail, they typically fail closed ("ON"). Likely, when the element shorted out and melted, it did some damage. The SSR may be toast. Try switching SSRs with each other - does the other element now run unregulated? Check the SSRs with a multimeter. When off, or disconnected, there should be no continuity across the high voltage side. If there is, that SSR is dead dead dead. I just updated my previous post with just that scenario. Looks like I will be replacing the SSR. I don't have a voltage tester, but I prob don't need one with the evidence thus far. Thanks for the input. R/ Jared


jbrux4	#32 Posted on 02/23/2020 4:07 PM
1/4 Pounder Posts: 139 Joined: October 26, 2019	What I have solved is the electrical termination problem. No arcing or sparking this time. My sandwich is as follows: Element Ceramic Backer, Nichrome Wire, High Temp Male Spade Connector (I had to enlarge the hole diameter jusrt barely using a small drill bit and some pliers to hold the termination to keep it from spinning), mfr supplied washer (the ceramic ones are too brittle and crack under the slightest pressure), and the screw head. Here is a pic: Male Spade Connectors: https://www.amazo...&psc=1 jbrux4 attached the following image: R/ Jared


jbrux4	#33 Posted on 02/27/2020 9:17 PM
1/4 Pounder Posts: 139 Joined: October 26, 2019	The runaway element was fixed by replacing the SSR. Easy fix, but money I didn't want to have to spend. And, actually, with an element always at 100%, roasting was actually easier to maintain a good RoR. There were less "slight" adjustments needed and it was predictable. I did 4 roasts like that. Oh well, back to the norm. Besides, who wants to have to unplug an element at cool down? Perhaps a toggle switch...hmmmmm, maybe. Couple things I learned from the SSR issue: * Never leave it plugged in when not in use * Always run the blower when plugging in the elements just in case an SSR is stuck in the "always on" position Anyways - case closed. Thanks to the forum for helping again!! R/ Jared


shortyjacobs	#34 Posted on 02/28/2020 1:30 PM
Newbie Posts: 44 Joined: September 24, 2014	Yep. I use a contactor relay upstream of my SSRs for a "positive shutoff". Mains power to the SSRs is only enabled once the fans are running and a roast has begun, and I cut power to the SSRs at the end of the roast with the contactor to start the cooldown phase. I don't trust SSRs as a positive "off", since they are just semiconductor chips that can fail...I like air separating my contacts when it really matters. -Keith

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