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11/26/2020 6:37 AM
Everyone have a super Thanksgiving and may all your roasts turn out stellar woohoo

11/25/2020 4:20 PM
Howdy 1st CH and welcome to HR forum! Be sure to read in the forums to see if anything covers the topic and please post away in drum roaster forums Welcome

11/25/2020 3:35 PM
Hey everyone! I am new to the home roasters forum. Mainly here to read and learn! I’d also love to get advice about modifying my roaster (a Huky 500)

11/10/2020 5:29 PM
Welcome MJ, post away! Cheers

11/08/2020 6:05 PM
Hello All, New here, started with an air popper, now using fresh roast 800. I'm here to learn and connect with others Thank you

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Beans Discharge Solution
My first roasting trial with beans discharge solution and 5000 Watt dryer heater. It will be more practical if a small lever added to lift the bar.

Husamka attached the following image:

Edited by Husamka on 10/26/2020 10:23 PM
Nice solution.

How does it work? And any pics, parts list, diagram??

Congrats on getting to the trials stage!!
Thank you Jared,
The key is to use 2" gasket mesh with 1.5" reducer similar to yours. initially, you can cut 2" circle from a suitable mesh and fold the edges till you receive the gasket. Moreover this 2" mesh will make your beans fountain smoother without the whole pile get jumping.
As your heater died I recommend you go for a Dryer heater it's much powerful and safer and no need for drilling stainless-steel. it's just ready and it has its own housing. I ordered two heaters similar to yours and 2"x6 spool tube but left as a second option in case this option is failed.
Edited by Husamka on 10/27/2020 11:20 PM


Husamka wrote:

As your heater died I recommend you go for a Dryer heater it's much powerful and safer and no need for drilling stainless-steel. it's just ready and it has its own housing.

What about the wiring to/from the element? How did you route the wires? What gauge/type wires are you using? How did you connect the terminals?
I am using the below heater, All Dryer heaters run with 240 volts. This means you should supply them with two lines (hot) and no need for a neutral connection. to connect it to the SSR you have two options.
A- use one SSR for the first line and the second go direct to the heater. with this option, one line will be connected although you switch the heater off from Artisan.
B- Use two SSR, one for each line similar to two SSR connection which you are using now. which I prefer so when you switch the heater off from Artisan the heater will be without power from both ends.
As you can see the heater is well isolated from the housing and has two heat sensors that shut the heater in case of high heat in the body. In fact, the sensor forces me not to go less than 15% of blower speed.

currently, I am using wire gauge 12 as I put a max limit 75% to the heater by Artisan. and each line gives power similar to your heat gun element 1700 watt. but if you want to use it 100% then need gauge 10.

This heater has two parts connected in parallel from one end. I don't know about other dryer heaters.

Regarding the 2" pipe and heater. maybe these ceramic is useful for you.

2" is way better, I don't know who decided 1.5" is the right choice although it's less safe, difficult to adjust the heater inside and reduce air power.
Husamka attached the following image:

Edited by Husamka on 11/01/2020 8:35 PM
Nicely done Husamka! Thanks for taking the time to explain.

KKTO Roaster.
Thanks for all the info. Looks great.

For me, the 1.5" is working fine. I have more blower capacity than I know what to do with, so I have no issues there. Also, with the thick mica and the element, the element is wedged in with the the ceramic block that the element sits in. I do have the hole in the pipe to hang the element and for the wires to get to the element. It works fine for me. If anything, it is more of a hassle to get set up, but it has proven to work fine for me.

Hopefully you get to do more trials and see the limits of your setup and to find your sweet spot for roast size, etc.

Thanks again.
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