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03/04/2021 9:04 PM
I have been trying Scott Rao Hario V60 pourover this week. 1:17 and blooming with 2 parts water the first 45 seconds then splitting the rest into 2 pours. A little stirring is included. We like it.

03/04/2021 11:35 AM
My brew ratio is 1:17 (exactly 59.5 g/L). That's roughly 8.5g per 5-oz cup.

02/27/2021 9:29 AM
I'm looking to hire someone to teach/help me to find the best roast profile for the 3 types of coffee that grow on my farm in nicaragua. I live in LA, but but could go anywhere in so cal with my Behmor for a roasting lesson. Please contact me if you're in

02/17/2021 7:20 PM
When your wife thinks 30 grams for a 6 cup setting is strong, you learn to drink muddy water when you are making coffee for both of you.

02/17/2021 8:32 AM
I use a rule of thumb of 60 grams per liter. 8 cups (1 liter, 32 oz) = 60 grams, 6 cups (3/4 liter, 24 oz) = 45 grams. 10 cups = 75 grams 12 cups = 90 grams

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SSR Control on Poppery I fan
Hi I have recently modified my Poppery I to be controlled by the Ardunio Uno/TC4 by following the linked Instructable as closely as possible. The fan motor is connected to a "Crydom D2425-10" SSR. When I use software to turn down the fan motor it simply shuts on and off frequently instead of actually slowing the motor.

Is slowing the motor possible? If so do i have the wrong SSR or is there something I should change with the wiring? Thanks in advance!

An SSR turns things on and off by definition. I use a light dimmer (Westek 6077B 200-Watt Manual Dimmer) on the fan side. The fan diode wants to see about 25VAC so you should use a transformer to bring down the 115VAC. A 115/24 transformer as on Amazon for $10 or so for HVAC use only delivers about .5 amp to the fan. I just bought a 115/44 (Hammond Mfg 166J44) which should double the current. pricey at $40 and probably unnecessary. the 115/24 works good enough.
thanks for the info and answer! so it sounds like manual is the way to go. is there any kind of dimmer that would be able to hook up and adjust from the artisan software? I like that aspect of the SSR but thats it
I did such thing some time ago, check here:

If interested, give me a PM with your e-mail address, to send the app.


tastyparm wrote:

thanks for the info and answer! so it sounds like manual is the way to go. is there any kind of dimmer that would be able to hook up and adjust from the artisan software? I like that aspect of the SSR but thats it

Don't you say you use the TC4? If so, this unit features the PWM control for the fan (as long as it is a DC fan, that is). The working principle of the TC4 is "very fast switching of DC current on/off by a MOSFET", which is principally the same as the "switching with SSR", but only the MOSFET can go much faster, and that is being used together with the fan inertia to effectively cause it to spin slower or faster, depending on how often it is switched on/off per second (in the hundreds). Meanwhile, the SSR might switch the heater on/off once or twice per second and thereby control the effective delivered temperature.

Just my five cent...
Poppery I use an 110V "universal" AC/DC motor, that can't be controlled using a MOSFET... well, not an ordinary one, as those used for 25 V DC motors.
The op wrote he already tried with a SSR, on OT2, as in article, using PAC control, and failed.
Is hard to diagnose from this point, without having the pieces on the table...
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