Not a member yet?
Click here to register.

Forgotten your password?
Request a new one here.

Shoutbox

You must login to post a message.

allenb

12/07/2023 9:47 AM

Hi Ken, good to see you again!

snwcmpr

12/06/2023 3:24 PM

I'm back. Sort of. I've not logged in for a while. Ken

renatoa

12/06/2023 1:11 AM

coffeeengineer and Ranloe,

renatoa

12/05/2023 2:44 AM

Isdel7 and Sloppy Fingers

allenb

12/04/2023 11:51 AM

Ross

Shoutbox Archive

Forum Threads

Newest Threads

Skywalker, the ALM c...
Advice needed for ty...
Drum or Fluid Bed
My First Roaster (lo...
Wake Up Smart Home C...

Hottest Threads

Skywalker, the AL...	[70]
Larry Cotton's 'w...	[62]
1lb FB hopper roa...	[33]
Bellwether Roaster	[27]
Apwollo 11 roaste...	[27]

In Memory Of Ginny

Donations

Latest Donations
dmccallum - 10.00
JackH - 25.00
snwcmpr - 10.00
Anonymous - 2.00
Anonymous - 5.00

Users Online

Guests Online: 9

Members Online: 0

Total Members: 8,020
Newest Member: coffeeengineer

Oh no! Where's the JavaScript?
Your Web browser does not have JavaScript enabled or does not support JavaScript. Please enable JavaScript on your Web browser to properly view this Web site,
or upgrade to a Web browser that does support JavaScript; Firefox, Safari, Opera, Chrome or a version of Internet Explorer newer then version 6.

View Thread

Homeroasters - Home Roasting Coffee Community » ALL ABOUT ROASTERS » Popcorn Popper roasting

Who is here? 1 guest(s)

Repairing/replacing heating element
zamunda	#1 Posted on 05/06/2022 7:53 AM
1/4 Pounder Posts: 172 Joined: November 17, 2020	Hello, I screwed up this heating element (mixed up fase and nul ). Is it possible to fix these or replace it by a generic heating element in order not to buy another popcorn-popper? Thanks! zamunda attached the following image: ######################## ### A lot can happen over coffee ### ########################
	Web

renatoa	#2 Posted on 05/06/2022 9:11 AM
Administrator Posts: 2748 Joined: September 30, 2016	What is broken? I can't see from the picture... The component connected to red wire is a thermal fuse, that usually melt at 270C, to protect the machine, check with a meter. It can be replaced, or bypassed by a short circuit, but in this case you lose the protection next time. Is the bi-metal still active, or locked in permanent ON position ? Edited by renatoa on 05/06/2022 10:35 AM


zamunda	#3 Posted on 05/06/2022 2:19 PM
1/4 Pounder Posts: 172 Joined: November 17, 2020	Hello Renatoa, Thanks for your reply. I post some extra photos, does these tell you something more? I can not see if the bi-metal is still active...how do I know? If the thermal fuse is melted I should replace it? Thanks again. zamunda attached the following images: ######################## ### A lot can happen over coffee ### ########################
	Web

zamunda	#4 Posted on 05/06/2022 2:52 PM
1/4 Pounder Posts: 172 Joined: November 17, 2020	Hello Renatoa, Here I am measuring resistance over the fuse and the bi-metal. If my conclusion is right, the fuse is still working but the bi-metal is open (if I press it down, it gives an expected value I guess) but please correct me if I am wrong. If the bi-metal is damaged, how could I repair it or just solder it to keep it in place? Thanks for any advice! zamunda attached the following images: ######################## ### A lot can happen over coffee ### ########################
	Web

renatoa	#5 Posted on 05/06/2022 3:08 PM
Administrator Posts: 2748 Joined: September 30, 2016	Those 16-17 values, if Ohms, are intriguing for me... they are too high for the bimetal or thermal fuse... and too low for the heater wire. You should read zero, as when you touch the probe tips. To have an answer if your heater wire is still OK, you should measure between the two pads pointed by arrows as in the attached image. About 40-50 Ohms is expected to read there for a typical valid 1200W heater, for 230V EU mains. renatoa attached the following image:


zamunda	#6 Posted on 05/06/2022 3:19 PM
1/4 Pounder Posts: 172 Joined: November 17, 2020	Hello Renatoa, Thanks for the info... Quote To have an answer if your heater wire is still OK, you should measure between the two pads pointed by arrows as in the attached image. About 40-50 Ohms is expected to read there for a typical valid 1200W heater, for 230V EU mains. If I measure, I get no value, that is '0'... ######################## ### A lot can happen over coffee ### ########################
	Web

renatoa	#7 Posted on 05/07/2022 2:37 AM
Administrator Posts: 2748 Joined: September 30, 2016	Does your meter have different values on display for infinite resistance = interrupted circuit, and zero Ohms = short circuit? On my meter infinity reads �0. L.� and short circuit reads "0.0"


zamunda	#8 Posted on 05/08/2022 1:37 AM
1/4 Pounder Posts: 172 Joined: November 17, 2020	Hello Renatoa, Quote renatoa wrote: Does your meter have different values on display for infinite resistance = interrupted circuit, and zero Ohms = short circuit? On my meter infinity reads �0. L.� and short circuit reads "0.0" I finally found another heating element from another Popper I had bought in the past. I measured there the resistance as you indicated and got 54 Ohms. This model only had a thermal fuse, no bi-metal (if I recall, this was on the outside of the chamber and could be easily removed). I mounted this element on my popper and now it works as a charm again! Thanks again for your help! Edited by zamunda on 05/08/2022 3:09 AM ######################## ### A lot can happen over coffee ### ########################
	Web

Jump to Forum:

Similar Threads

Thread	Forum	Replies	Last Post
Unable to get Artisan Scope's PID to control heating	Dataloggers/Controllers/Rate of Rise Meters	4	08/01/2023 9:11 AM
No heat suddenly. Problem continues even with swapped heating element.	Gene Cafe Roaster	9	05/01/2023 7:13 PM
Heating elements	Fluidbed Roaster	16	03/21/2023 9:40 AM
1/2 lb - Heat Gun Element - Tc4+ - Fluidbed Roaster	Fluidbed Roaster	22	09/28/2022 8:03 AM
DIY Kanthal A1 heating coil	Heat Gun Roasting	20	06/23/2022 6:24 AM