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Modding the AICOOK.BMH-1202A
renatoa
Top  #21 Print Post
Posted on 09/16/2022 6:58 AM
As it goes for 50 grams... same is for 500:
https://homeroast...ad_id=3174

... or 15000...
The last model of Sivetz design, claimed the father of all FBs, is using a similar movement, in a square chamber.
https://www.sivet...15-roaster
Edited by renatoa on 09/16/2022 7:03 AM
 
HarryDog
Top  #22 Print Post
Posted on 09/16/2022 8:41 AM
I like the bean control of Allenb's version, the Sivet videos I found did not look as even but a much bigger batch, one video looked like a double wave if not a reflection in the video?

Do you know the diameter of the holes?
Maybe 5/32?

The stock heater has two rivets but they look isolated so I think I can make some plates to test hole size once I get a little closer and slide them in place just on top the heater or put them under the cup I'm going to try using?

Few ideas to try now.
 
renatoa
Top  #23 Print Post
Posted on 09/16/2022 8:47 AM
3 mm are the holes in the 50g sampler.
Depends how small are the smallest beans you are roasting.
Not a peaberry machine, definitely...
 
HarryDog
Top  #24 Print Post
Posted on 09/16/2022 11:17 AM
Wow even my smallest beans are much bigger then 3mm or 1/8inch?
How small do peaberry beans get?

Not having any luck with google yet?
I was thinking of trying 1/8" holes.

Was going to try 3/32" on the outside ring on stock plate?

Found a bean size chart, looks like 3.2mm-3.6mm?

That might be cutting it close.
Edited by HarryDog on 09/16/2022 11:28 AM
 
renatoa
Top  #25 Print Post
Posted on 09/16/2022 2:14 PM
Coffee grades are used to qualify the beans size, a number whose meaning is the x/64 size of screen that allow to pass those beans:
https://driftaway...ee-grades/

As article says, is grades, not grading, which is a term related to quality, number of defects.
 
HarryDog
Top  #26 Print Post
Posted on 09/18/2022 2:07 PM
This build is causing some issues, the cup I was going to use is thicker stainless steel and my cheap step bits wont cut it and the inside wall is too far from the bottom so I used a different cup much lighter that they would drill out the bottom and fits in the hole. During my hot and fast test the temp goes to 180c then drops to 150c so I need to bypass the thermal fuse by the look of it. I have already removed the plate on the cut off switch. During a 132gram test a few beans did fly out when green so it will require an extension.
I placed a short thermocoupler at the 100gram range, think this should have been lowered a bit? Going to bypass this thermal fuse and get a roast in.

Does anyone know of a good thread or two on a FB roaster using a heat gun, my next project?

Can't post a pic?
Pixel and file size is ok?

I think I found the issue, I stripped the data off the pic and it won't let me post them.
HarryDog attached the following images:
first-roast-r3e.jpg r3e.jpg coffee-r3e.jpg
Edited by HarryDog on 09/18/2022 6:02 PM
 
HarryDog
Top  #27 Print Post
Posted on 09/24/2022 4:21 PM
I liked the evenness of all three popcorn popper bean movement types, this one is slightly more even. I did have 2 half bean that did not roast enough but the rest were ok. Next I will test out that side plate to see how even it will roast, hope it will be even better.

I need to make a chaff filter as I don't think I will be able to use this roaster outside in the winter. I have looked at a cyclone but how much air flow is required?

Can I get away with using a 300 micron beer screen and just place it inside a vent tube to filter out the chaff without loosing to much air flow?
For small batches I think this will work.
 
renatoa
Top  #28 Print Post
Posted on 09/25/2022 4:02 AM
300 microns is way too fine, will clog instantly, imo.
I would try a sieve with at least 500 microns opening (flour).

You can use the cyclone a lot of people here is using, the SN25T5 sold by chinese sites.
If happy to tinker, you can mock-up something very close from a cocktail shaker.
 
HarryDog
Top  #29 Print Post
Posted on 09/25/2022 8:24 AM
That looks like a good option, do any of the metal ones have a bottom flange?
That would be an easy way to just bolt on a jar lid. The plastic ones look to have a flange but not any of the metal ones I could find.

The beer screen is 2.7"x11.5" so I was hoping it would be large enough not to plug?
Edited by HarryDog on 09/25/2022 9:59 AM
 
renatoa
Top  #30 Print Post
Posted on 09/25/2022 9:24 AM
Nope, not delivered with a flange.
My approach is to make a custom flange from the jar lid itself, sealed to the cyclone with a thread of silicone.
The opening diameter is 40 mm.
Edited by renatoa on 09/27/2022 7:40 AM
 
HarryDog
Top  #31 Print Post
Posted on 09/27/2022 6:29 AM
Needed some fresh coffee so I roasted four batches at 150 grams each and the beans still moved well with the stock fan. Two just after first crack and two up to second crack. The bags mess up the light a bit.
HarryDog attached the following image:
roast2_1.jpg
 
HarryDog
Top  #32 Print Post
Posted on 10/15/2022 6:14 PM
I changed the blower and did a short test on bean movement using 227grams or .5 pounds.
Looks good, need to finish my exhaust setup and will see how it roasts.
This is a video if it works.
https://www.youtu...aaJiQDXvJ4
HarryDog attached the following image:
blower1_1.jpg
 
HarryDog
Top  #33 Print Post
Posted on 11/01/2022 9:57 AM
I want to connect Artisan to (control) my Air Popper, after looking at the Phidgets I see this module.

4x Isolated Solid State Relay Phidget
ID: REL1100_0 30v 8Amp Max
This module is reported to be faster?

Wondering if I connect my 24v DC power supply I can run the heater (using SSR Zero-Cross Turn-on) and DC Blower using the PWM option on second connection?
Edited by renatoa on 11/12/2022 1:56 AM
 
HarryDog
Top  #34 Print Post
Posted on 11/11/2022 6:19 PM
I made a bean ejection tube so I could eject the beans without disconnecting the roaster to dump.
The rubber disk forces the beans out the tube and the screen keeps things from blowing out of the vessel I tested first.
I changed to a bag that can breath and that works great.

Any other examples I can look at or options I should try to improve my design?
HarryDog attached the following image:
bean-tube2.jpg
 
renatoa
Top  #35 Print Post
Posted on 11/12/2022 1:56 AM

Quote

HarryDog wrote:

I want to connect Artisan to (control) my Air Popper, after looking at the Phidgets I see this module.

4x Isolated Solid State Relay Phidget
ID: REL1100_0 30v 8Amp Max
This module is reported to be faster?

Wondering if I connect my 24v DC power supply I can run the heater (using SSR Zero-Cross Turn-on) and DC Blower using the PWM option on second connection?


If solid state, then surely is faster than a mechanical relay.
Beware, input is not clear PWM, but proprietary Phidget VINT protocol/API. No idea how Artisan cope with this...
Also, zero cross going... where ?
 
renatoa
Top  #36 Print Post
Posted on 11/12/2022 2:07 AM

Quote

HarryDog wrote:

I made a bean ejection tube so I could eject the beans without disconnecting the roaster to dump.
The rubber disk forces the beans out the tube and the screen keeps things from blowing out of the vessel I tested first.
I changed to a bag that can breath and that works great.

Any other examples I can look at or options I should try to improve my design?


Stainless steel jar lid as exhaust trap, and metallic conduit from there
~~~
renatoa attached the following images:
image_2022-11-12_100657263.png image_2022-11-12_100558582.png
 
HarryDog
Top  #37 Print Post
Posted on 11/12/2022 9:01 AM
Hello Renatoa,

Quote

renatoa wrote:

Beware, input is not clear PWM, but proprietary Phidget VINT protocol/API. No idea how Artisan cope with this...
Also, zero cross going... where ?


I will test the PWM function on the old roaster first to see how artsian handles it.
Then add the heater but, Not sure of your question zero cross going... where ?

Is this not the correct SSR "Zero-Cross Turn-on" for running a resistive load like the heater?

Quote

renatoa wrote:

Quote

HarryDog wrote:

Any other examples I can look at or options I should try to improve my design?


Stainless steel jar lid as exhaust trap, and metallic conduit from there
~~~


Not sure how I would implement this?
I can see the screen used to filter and keep beans in, the conduit to exhaust out but do I make a T junction to get the beans in the jar? or is this for trapping chaff?
 
renatoa
Top  #38 Print Post
Posted on 11/12/2022 10:02 AM
The part with holes of the lid removed, and the conduit connected there.
Is similar with yours but full metal instead plastic.
All my attempts of evacuating hot beans using plastic items resulted in melted plastic... the beans are +200C through... the first seconds.
 
renatoa
Top  #39 Print Post
Posted on 11/12/2022 10:05 AM

Quote

I will test the PWM function on the old roaster first to see how artsian handles it.
Then add the heater but, Not sure of your question zero cross going... where ?


I am puzzled how you intend to connect all of these...
The phidget relay input where ?
Artisan PWM output ? Not aware it became capable of such achievement ... over USB or which connection ?
 
HarryDog
Top  #40 Print Post
Posted on 11/12/2022 11:47 AM

Quote

renatoa wrote:

The part with holes of the lid removed, and the conduit connected there.
Is similar with yours but full metal instead plastic.
All my attempts of evacuating hot beans using plastic items resulted in melted plastic... the beans are +200C through... the first seconds.


I will be cooling the beans in the chamber, not sure how much but they cool well, The only drawback is cooling the chamber as well.
Pex is rated for 180F but the funnel part would melt for sure.

On the lid, if I put the conduit in the middle, are some of the holes left around the conduit (that would work) or the pressure would equalize and the beans would not flow.

I could use a standard metal wide mason jar lid, put the conduit in the middle and drill holes around it.

I need to look at more examples of bean ejection systems as I plan to make a more permanent roaster later.
 
HarryDog
Top  #41 Print Post
Posted on 11/12/2022 12:07 PM

Quote

renatoa wrote:

Quote

I will test the PWM function on the old roaster first to see how artsian handles it.
Then add the heater but, Not sure of your question zero cross going... where ?


I am puzzled how you intend to connect all of these...
The phidget relay input where ?
Artisan PWM output ? Not aware it became capable of such achievement ... over USB or which connection ?


Phidget digital relay to Vint hub, to usb.
So PWM from digital relay using my 24v DC power supply. If the slider (PID control) does not work I thought I could make buttons to control it? If not the phidget control has a slider as a last resort.

For the Heater, run from second tap on the 24v dc power supply to relay to the SSR DC side to switch AC for heater.

Now I saw a gentleman use the PID slider and a phidget +10-10v or 5v to run a SSR, So I thought using this relay and my current power supply would work?

I plan to get the roaster going using my manual controls and the Phidget thermocouples module, then test the other stuff out.
Edited by HarryDog on 11/12/2022 2:40 PM
 
HarryDog
Top  #42 Print Post
Posted on 11/12/2022 7:19 PM
Hello Renatoa, reading a thread at home barista.com states the zero cross SSR might not be very good control for the heater, so they suggest using a proportional ssr?

Do you have any economical suggestions that will get the job done.
Proportional SSR or Proportional SCR?

Thanks.
 
renatoa
Top  #43 Print Post
Posted on 11/13/2022 1:20 AM
If 1% is not enough for you... some masters are roasting with only 3-4 steps of power for the whole profile, having at best 5% precision.

Depends how high is your pickiness... and how right is their argumentation.
A reading of that thread would help.

Yes, in some noisy environments, as is my house, ZC can be very random, and this is not covered in TC4 code, added my own false triggering detection code.
In the industry this is usually addressed at the source, filtering the sinus for high frequency noise, and a bit more sophisticated edge detection circuitry, using hysteresis comparators.

SSR or SCR are somewhat used interchangeable... puzzled...
No idea what they talk about "proportional"... linear instead stepped or what?
 
HarryDog
Top  #44 Print Post
Posted on 11/13/2022 7:56 AM
This is the link to Home Barista.com
https://www.home-...71394.html

They talk about the Out 1100 0-5v being not enough voltage to use PWM on the relay?
I will still be testing the Rel 1100 with my 24v DC PSU thinking this gives me more range to use PWM? Will need to test this out as I have the parts already.

Crydom PMP series looks like an option but Not in stock (31 week delay) Canada $180 USD I think it was. More then I want to spend.

SSR or SCR is me putting a video and the thread together.
https://www.youtu...amp;t=191s
If I use the youtube brackets this video does not load so I just put in the link.
This person uses a Crydom he calls proportional SCR I can't read all the model number due to chaff but V2450 I can see.

Phidget uses Proportional SSRs and AC Linear Controlled SSRs basically interchangeable?

Ali Express has a Single Phase Linear Proportional Controller Input 0-10V output 24-230VAC (ZGT-25 LA) If they work real cheap.

https://www.aliex...91814.html
8 week delay but the price is right.
Edited by renatoa on 11/15/2022 7:01 AM
 
renatoa
Top  #45 Print Post
Posted on 11/15/2022 7:33 AM
The youtube tags doesn't work because the time pointer included in the url

Code Download source  

...;t=191s
Will let as url for now, until finding a solution.

The HB discussion is around an Artisan-Phidget solution, unfortunately not my area of expertise, so I can't help.

But the "proportional" thing intrigued me so I investigated a bit, to find that mystery box from Crydom is nothing else than a PAC control unit, embedding its own ZC circuitry and a SSR.
A more sophisticated implementation of a dimmer, but nothing that TC4 can't do.
Conversely, I am considering the ICC mode of TC4 better suited for heaters than PAC, for the health of heater wire, safety of mains load, and amount of EMI generated.
PAC is better to be used for fan AC motors only, where ICC is not suited.
As you alread mentioned, to not forget the cost of Crydom components, that keep me away from them, at least here in EU.

0-10V input could be tricky to drive from Arduino projects, requires additional circuitry to translate 0-5V to 0-10V range.
 
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