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Modding the AICOOK.BMH-1202A
HarryDog
Top  #41 Print Post
Posted on 11/12/2022 12:07 PM

Quote

renatoa wrote:

Quote

I will test the PWM function on the old roaster first to see how artsian handles it.
Then add the heater but, Not sure of your question zero cross going... where ?


I am puzzled how you intend to connect all of these...
The phidget relay input where ?
Artisan PWM output ? Not aware it became capable of such achievement ... over USB or which connection ?


Phidget digital relay to Vint hub, to usb.
So PWM from digital relay using my 24v DC power supply. If the slider (PID control) does not work I thought I could make buttons to control it? If not the phidget control has a slider as a last resort.

For the Heater, run from second tap on the 24v dc power supply to relay to the SSR DC side to switch AC for heater.

Now I saw a gentleman use the PID slider and a phidget +10-10v or 5v to run a SSR, So I thought using this relay and my current power supply would work?

I plan to get the roaster going using my manual controls and the Phidget thermocouples module, then test the other stuff out.
Edited by HarryDog on 11/12/2022 2:40 PM
 
HarryDog
Top  #42 Print Post
Posted on 11/12/2022 7:19 PM
Hello Renatoa, reading a thread at home barista.com states the zero cross SSR might not be very good control for the heater, so they suggest using a proportional ssr?

Do you have any economical suggestions that will get the job done.
Proportional SSR or Proportional SCR?

Thanks.
 
renatoa
Top  #43 Print Post
Posted on 11/13/2022 1:20 AM
If 1% is not enough for you... some masters are roasting with only 3-4 steps of power for the whole profile, having at best 5% precision.

Depends how high is your pickiness... and how right is their argumentation.
A reading of that thread would help.

Yes, in some noisy environments, as is my house, ZC can be very random, and this is not covered in TC4 code, added my own false triggering detection code.
In the industry this is usually addressed at the source, filtering the sinus for high frequency noise, and a bit more sophisticated edge detection circuitry, using hysteresis comparators.

SSR or SCR are somewhat used interchangeable... puzzled...
No idea what they talk about "proportional"... linear instead stepped or what?
 
HarryDog
Top  #44 Print Post
Posted on 11/13/2022 7:56 AM
This is the link to Home Barista.com
https://www.home-...71394.html

They talk about the Out 1100 0-5v being not enough voltage to use PWM on the relay?
I will still be testing the Rel 1100 with my 24v DC PSU thinking this gives me more range to use PWM? Will need to test this out as I have the parts already.

Crydom PMP series looks like an option but Not in stock (31 week delay) Canada $180 USD I think it was. More then I want to spend.

SSR or SCR is me putting a video and the thread together.
https://www.youtu...amp;t=191s
If I use the youtube brackets this video does not load so I just put in the link.
This person uses a Crydom he calls proportional SCR I can't read all the model number due to chaff but V2450 I can see.

Phidget uses Proportional SSRs and AC Linear Controlled SSRs basically interchangeable?

Ali Express has a Single Phase Linear Proportional Controller Input 0-10V output 24-230VAC (ZGT-25 LA) If they work real cheap.

https://www.aliex...91814.html
8 week delay but the price is right.
Edited by renatoa on 11/15/2022 7:01 AM
 
renatoa
Top  #45 Print Post
Posted on 11/15/2022 7:33 AM
The youtube tags doesn't work because the time pointer included in the url

Code Download source  

...;t=191s
Will let as url for now, until finding a solution.

The HB discussion is around an Artisan-Phidget solution, unfortunately not my area of expertise, so I can't help.

But the "proportional" thing intrigued me so I investigated a bit, to find that mystery box from Crydom is nothing else than a PAC control unit, embedding its own ZC circuitry and a SSR.
A more sophisticated implementation of a dimmer, but nothing that TC4 can't do.
Conversely, I am considering the ICC mode of TC4 better suited for heaters than PAC, for the health of heater wire, safety of mains load, and amount of EMI generated.
PAC is better to be used for fan AC motors only, where ICC is not suited.
As you alread mentioned, to not forget the cost of Crydom components, that keep me away from them, at least here in EU.

0-10V input could be tricky to drive from Arduino projects, requires additional circuitry to translate 0-5V to 0-10V range.
 
HarryDog
Top  #46 Print Post
Posted on 11/16/2022 8:05 AM
Thanks Renatoa for all the info, every bit helps me make better informed decisions. I also ordered one of those linear SSR's from china, hope it's not fake or using underrated parts?

Will do my best to do some testing on the weekend and post back results for others thinking of using the Phidgets.
 
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