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Air roaster building questions.
Kaffee Bitte
Anyone have a line on a good site to get high temp glass? Most of the glass sites I have been finding are geared towards art objects or windows. Not easy to navigate for what I am wanting.
Lynn

"Some days it's spice, other days it's bitter dirt."
 
seedlings
Oh, just give in, Lynn and go with the flow! Coleman glass globes, baby! Nhamilto40 and I are down with them. Join the club!

http://www.amazon...nkCode=asn

This actually reads like you're buying 6 of them for $9.77! That's a great deal. I got mine for $4 at a local hardware megastore.

CHAD
Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500
Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover
 
Kaffee Bitte
Maybe Chad, maybe. The thousand dollar question is? Is that roaster capable of doing 2 lbs post roast weight, i.e. 2.5ish lbs pre-load? That is my main goal, but of course can I go larger? I like the way you two put the roasters together. I am concerned about the heat guns though. How many have you gone through with this roaster? I know they aren't really expensive, but I need to think of the bottom line here. Buying numerous heat guns to keep roasting with could negatively impact my $. I could even adapt the seedling roaster, but I think I would need a larger roast chamber. Any ideas if coleman has taller ones of these?

The other thing I could try is to use the vaccum motor as opposed to the leaf blower. With the right one I might be able to increase the load weight somewhat. Isn't your stated max 1.5 lbs?

Is there any way that I could use a different heat source than the heat guns? How to do it. Gas fired might be tough with all that air blowing through. Guess I can search for some different heat sources.

I am pretty impressed with the look of nhamilto40's seedling roaster.
Lynn

"Some days it's spice, other days it's bitter dirt."
 
seedlings
Trust me, the leaf blower will blow over a kilo of greens right out of the chamber (and out into the lawn)! It's powerful. POW-ER-FUL! The limit of around 1.5 pounds had to do with heat, not air flow. Notice nhamilto40 had to hold down his entire roast chamber to keep it from blowing away!

I'd planned on using the globe for only PART of the roasting chamber, like the upper half.

My next roaster will scrap the heatguns for plain nichrome heat wire. I may salvage two nichrome coils from poppers I have laying around, or I may just order some nichrome wire on-line http://www.infrar.../metal.htm.

CHAD
Edited by seedlings on 01/17/2008 8:47 AM
Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500
Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover
 
bvwelch

Quote

seedlings wrote:

My next roaster will scrap the heatguns for plain nichrome heat wire. I may salvage two nichrome coils from poppers I have laying around, or I may just order some nichrome wire on-line http://www.infrar.../metal.htm.

CHAD


Why not save the poppers-- spare parts for you, or start a pool of spare parts here at Homeroasters?

It seems like there are lots of other cheap appliances we can salvage-- toasters, toaster oven, anything that is 1000 watts or more should work.

Bill
 
Dan
One of the tricks (I say that becuase I don't have the engineering expertise to calculate it) is making sure that the air temperature coming out of the heater is good for roasting. A 1000 watt heater may only give you, say, 200? with a high-volume blower, but double or triple that with lower volume blowers. The reason being that the air is cooling the heaters. Glowing nichrome is about 12-1400?, so you want to cool that some, but not too much. Dan
 
seedlings
Or maybe someone may want to split the $50 cost of a 10 foot length of coiled nichrome (probably the 19ga, since Dan has had success with that size), and not mess with tearing more stuff apart. My "spare junk parts" pile is too big, and not very useful anymore, it seems.

I believe that'd make 20 heat elements, 1500W each... or something close to that.

CHAD
Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500
Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover
 
Kaffee Bitte
Ok, Chad, I'll bite. How would one go about turning the nichrome coils into a heating element? Would it be difficult and dangerous for someone like me, who has little knowledge of electrical wiring. Mind you I know people with the knowledge, but it can be quite the wait to get them out here to help.

So the only thing holding your roasters back from the 1 kilo+ is the heating? That seems to bode well for my roaster.

Hmm. Seems there may be more seedlings inspired roasters coming along.
Lynn

"Some days it's spice, other days it's bitter dirt."
 
seedlings
Bill (bvwelch) has already illustrated a variable triac circuit capable of 20amps. I just built one, but have a switch and fuse yet to obtain. This circuit cycles the power on and off. It has a knob that, as you turn it, increases or decreases the on and off cycling speed from "on all the time" to "on for a couple of seconds, off for a couple of seconds." The lowest cycle speed available can be changed by substituting a different value potentiometer.

I think that nhmilito40's router speed control is virtually the same circuit, but 15 amps. In case you yourself didn't want to solder a bunch of little computer chips, resistors and capacitors together, that one's pre-assembled. OR, Bill may offer to build some (right, Bill..?) and offer them up in the Java Trading Co.

CHAD
Edited by seedlings on 01/17/2008 2:33 PM
Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500
Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover
 
Kaffee Bitte
I am 100% certain that I don't have the know how to be soddering anything. Friends probably could for free coffee though. This sort of thing is far outside my range of abilities.
Lynn

"Some days it's spice, other days it's bitter dirt."
 
RoasterRob
I have built several air roasters. Started with a 650 gram roaster and worked out we could use a bigger roast chamber on this unit that took it to 2.3kg. Made a slightly larger Rc and managed to get the max load to 3kg. Blower is a 230V 1000watt vacuum cleaner motor, heat source is a 2941 sievert LPG torch burner. Currently nearing completetion of a 5kg RC for same roaster will have 2 Vacuum blowers and probably a 2942 gas burner. I would go for the vacuum blower they fall in the right range for pressure and flow. The 2.3 kg RC is 6" dia and bean bed depth is 8". RC is round with assymetrical bean flow. IMO works better than the cone type RC, appears to need less pressure to get and keep the beans moving. There are about 5 roasters like this out there with some of them having done over 1000 roasts and no problems.

Rob vL
NZ

 
Dan
For my drum roaster, I used the 19ga. nichrome coil. It comes with the coils tightly compressed. That is, the coils are touching. Measure out 6.75" of wire. Uncoil three coils on each end make a loop and then twist that loop. This will create your terminals. Then, stretch out the coil until the space between each coil is at least three times the diameter of the wire. Mount it on electrical and thermal insulators like ceramic or mica, and you are set to go.

With the above heater you can supply 110VAC and it will get very hot, but won't burn up, even without an air flow.

As you add airflow, the temperature will drop. With some high-volume blowers, like leaf blowers, the resulting air temperature might be below roasting temps (around 525?). If so, then shorten your heater.

At some point, shortening your heater will mean that the blower must always be on, otherwise the heater will burn out.

Dan

 
seedlings

Quote

RoasterRob wrote:
I have built several air roasters. Started with a 650 gram roaster and worked out we could use a bigger roast chamber on this unit that took it to 2.3kg. Made a slightly larger Rc and managed to get the max load to 3kg. Blower is a 230V 1000watt vacuum cleaner motor, heat source is a 2941 sievert LPG torch burner. Currently nearing completetion of a 5kg RC for same roaster will have 2 Vacuum blowers and probably a 2942 gas burner. I would go for the vacuum blower they fall in the right range for pressure and flow. The 2.3 kg RC is 6" dia and bean bed depth is 8". RC is round with assymetrical bean flow. IMO works better than the cone type RC, appears to need less pressure to get and keep the beans moving. There are about 5 roasters like this out there with some of them having done over 1000 roasts and no problems.

Rob vL
NZ



Rob, that sounds like a BEAST! I'd LOVE to see some pictures! I had thought about using a LP torch (or acetelyne) for heat, but thought the airflow might snuff it out?

If you're not giving up any trade secrets... might you start a new post about your creation? I think there would be quite a bit of interest!

CHAD
Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500
Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover
 
Kaffee Bitte
Roaster Rob!
Thanks for the line on the sievert torch. That looks to be a workable solution for the LP fired roaster I would like to run. I'll continue to search for a vaccum blower that I can pair with it.

If I can get it to two kilos or just a little bit more I will be quite happy!

I also will keep researching the nichrome though, since it sounds like it could also be a workable solution.
Lynn

"Some days it's spice, other days it's bitter dirt."
 
RoasterRob
Hi Lynn

Not sure how to put images here (maybe someone can explain it to me using single sylabol words)
Any hoo my first gas air roaster attemptis on Ed Needhams site I must be onto the mark 7 or something by now.
The LPG torch sitsin the middle of a 6" dia pipe, i have a disc approx 4.5" behind it to stop the blower blowing directly at the flame. The first roaster had the blower at the bottm of the sam e pipe later units have the blower in a separate pipe with RHS directing the air in from under (pics will make it clear) My roast chambers are round but the bean flow is assymmetrical. That is - not a cone shaped roast chamber. My 10" RC is conical shape but my experiments point towards the assymetrical chambers requiring less pressure and flow to get the beans moving. I think this is because there is less friction with the beans to the side of the stainless steel pipe compared to the cone type RC having to deal with the bean to bean friction.
Will get the pics in here when someone explains it to me.


Rob
VBM Minimax 2gp, 1gp Reneka Techno, 2 gp la Pavoni Pub, la Cimbali M28, SJ Maz, FB 6kg HM roaster and other stuff
 
seedlings
To load one pic at a time:

-Click on "Add Reply"
-type some words
-on top of "Post Reply" click "Browse"
-find and click on the pic you want to add
-BE DARN SURE IT IS LESS THAN 500x500 AND LESS THAN 100K so Ginny won't gripe any more Grin
-you must click "Post Reply" so the pic will load up.

That is all. (The only 2-syllable word was "ginny," pretty good, huh? Well, and "reply" but I had to use that one!)


------------------------------
To link a pic on the net:

-find the url for the pic
-"copy" it
-"paste" it in with your words
-put "[img]" in front of your url and "[/img]" in back of your url
-click "Preview Reply" to be sure it looks right to you
-click "Post Reply" so we can all see it too

I think I have seen your roaster on Ed Needham's site, was it the steel tube about 3 feet tall?

CHAD
Edited by seedlings on 01/21/2008 8:37 AM
Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500
Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover
 
Kaffee Bitte
That is one interesting roaster Bob! How difficult was it to put together?
Lynn

"Some days it's spice, other days it's bitter dirt."
 
RoasterRob
This is a picture of the mark 2. I am still using the furnace section of this. Th RC is the 650 gram unit. Have progressively built a 1.9kg, a 2.3kg and a 3kg. Working on the 5kg at present.

Yes Chad the mark 1 is on Ed's site, the furnace section is about 1000mm (3'3") the 2.3 RC is about 700mm (27").
Will put a few pics up here. I might look at putting some up on a sight like flickr or such.

Rob
RoasterRob attached the following image:
roastermk2[672].jpg

Edited by RoasterRob on 01/22/2008 4:35 AM
VBM Minimax 2gp, 1gp Reneka Techno, 2 gp la Pavoni Pub, la Cimbali M28, SJ Maz, FB 6kg HM roaster and other stuff
 
RoasterRob
This is one i built in stainless.
RoasterRob attached the following image:
SSroaster1[673].jpg

VBM Minimax 2gp, 1gp Reneka Techno, 2 gp la Pavoni Pub, la Cimbali M28, SJ Maz, FB 6kg HM roaster and other stuff
 
RoasterRob
And the 5kg RC almost finished, plus another project next to it.
RoasterRob attached the following image:
10inrc[674].jpg

VBM Minimax 2gp, 1gp Reneka Techno, 2 gp la Pavoni Pub, la Cimbali M28, SJ Maz, FB 6kg HM roaster and other stuff
 
seedlings
s:1Works of ART! s:1Beautiful! s:1Awe-inspiring! :@Envy-producing!


Wow.s:2
CHAD


P.S. Wow.s:2s:2

P.S.S. What is the blower & motor you're using for your designs?
Edited by seedlings on 01/22/2008 10:25 AM
Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500
Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover
 
Kaffee Bitte
I agree with Chad on this. Those are some sweet pimped out roasters!
I am very impressed.

A few quick questions. While roasting does anything sit on the top to keep beans from flying out? Or is the blower just low enough in pressure to keep them flowing below the outlet? Is it possible to view the beans or take temp readings? Or do you roast by sound and smell, which in all honestly is pretty close to how I do it anyway. I can sort of see the beans in my roaster, but not well, and the temperature readings are more an iffy guide in my drum since they don't give me bean mass temps. They mostly just tell me the ambient temp of the grill chamber.
Lynn

"Some days it's spice, other days it's bitter dirt."
 
EddieDove
HOLY CRAP! s:4

Um ... I mean ... GOLLY!

Those are awesome! s:1
Respectfully,

Eddie Dove

The South Coast Coffee Roaster
vita non est vivere sed valere vita est
Home Coffee Roasting Blog and Reference
http://southcoast...gspot.com/
 
RoasterRob
No lid required (although the stainless one has a perf lid for when you dump the beans, long story). I have a triac based 1kw controller for controlling the airflow and hence bean movement and also the profile. Temp is measured in the none airflow part of the bean mass. Dump temp is typically 233C which is early part of rolling 2nd, a few beans have oil spots. Roast starts with controller at bout 80% and finishes with it at bout 40%.

The beans flow very smoothly across the roast chamber, this is an assymetrical type RC (haven't used the cone one yet). Blower is a 1.1kw cheapo vacuum cleaner motor bout 5" dia and only 4" high. We have fluidised 3kg with one blower.

Typical roast is 1st crack at bout 8min and 2nd bout 11.30. Roaster is very controllable profile wise. Am working on a temp display that gives more data. Basically a datalogger that displays delta T, ie rate of temp increase per minute. had a friend make one at one stage but cos we used the wrong A to D chips it awsn't as accurate as we had hoped. There are some guys around the cnr from my work that have a datalogger they can change some code for a moderate charge and it should do what i want.
RoasterRob attached the following image:
tcdisplay[675].jpg

VBM Minimax 2gp, 1gp Reneka Techno, 2 gp la Pavoni Pub, la Cimbali M28, SJ Maz, FB 6kg HM roaster and other stuff
 
seedlings
...


speechless,
CHAD
Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500
Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover
 
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