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1 Kilogram Heatgun & Breadmaker 2.2 Pounds!
seedlings
This may be common for regular users of the heatgun + breadmaker (HG/BM) setup, but I maxed mine out tonight at very near 2.5 pounds. It was lipping the edges! Here's a nice Sumatra Mandheling from CoffeeBeanDirect taken to rolling 2nd. (The blower in my bean cooler didn't come on, so it's a little darker than I'd have liked.)

CHAD
seedlings attached the following image:
HPIM3421[710].jpg

Edited by seedlings on 09/06/2009 8:36 PM
Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500
Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover
 
seedlings
The roast was a little uneven since at the end the beans at the top were right up next to the heatgun, and the breadmaker didn't circulate well with that amount of beans.

CHAD
seedlings attached the following image:
HPIM3420[711].jpg

Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500
Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover
 
David

Quote

seedlings wrote: but I maxed mine out tonight at very near 2.5 pounds. CHAD

Shock

Somebody had to do it. ;)

Congratulations, Chad. s:1

Yet another first for homeroasters.org s:2
 
Kaffee Bitte
Good job. And that certainly isn't the most uneven batch of beans to ever come out of an air roaster. Just a few here and there, looks to me. Chalk it up to being a semi-wet process and call it good.
Lynn

"Some days it's spice, other days it's bitter dirt."
 
MarkBart
Now get a rectangualr pan and go for 3#, Bmhehehehehe!
Mine might be able to handle it, but my 1 Kilo load was getting
me a bit worried about heat retention due to the heat gun position
and the rising bean mass. At the end the heat gun snout was buried in beans, right in the vortex the impeller creates. But it was just pumping the heat down into that vortex, applying DEEP HEAT to those beans, hehehe


Mark
I'm so Bad, I'm Good! www.homeroasters.org/php/images/smiley/cool.gif
I'm putting the small back into Small Business!
 
seedlings

Quote

MarkBart wrote:
At the end the heat gun snout was buried in beans, right in the vortex the impeller creates. But it was just pumping the heat down into that vortex, applying DEEP HEAT to those beans, hehehe


Mark


Aaaah, nothing like the deep heat!

Your impeller is the original one that came with the bread machine, or homemade? Mine is ... homemade. I have no "vortex" unless the batch is smaller than a pound, which is very rare. At the end, this looked like a mass of beans with a "creature" wandering around just under the surface. No vortex.

CHAD
Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500
Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover
 
boyntonstu
Photo of your homemade stirrer please.;)
 
seedlings

Quote

boyntonstu wrote:
Photo of your homemade stirrer please.;)


Here you go Stu. I expect you'll appreciate it.

The big square thing is a ground bond clamp. The wavvy wire is #6 ga solid copper ground wire. My machine didn't come with the stirrer, so I improvised (you know). On the first roast, green beans filled nooks and crannies and have now expanded to fill the voids :)

CHAD
seedlings attached the following image:
BM Stirrer[731].jpg

Edited by seedlings on 02/07/2008 4:24 PM
Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500
Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover
 
PeteH
Thanks for posting the pic of your stirrer. I am new here and have been lurking for a few weeks.

I have been using a Popper and also have a Caffe Rosto roaster. I have a BM all rewired and ready to use but need a stirring paddle in it.

How close to the edge of the BM container does the stirrer need to be? I was thinking of using a cable clamp to go around the shaft and bolt a piece of sheet metal under the nuts to make a stirrer but your's looks easier.

Thanks, Pete
 
seedlings
Hey, Pete, a Missourian to boot! Nice first post, and it's great to see you out of the shadows!

Quote

How close to the edge of the BM container does the stirrer need to be?


Greater than one roasted bean's width is what I did. Roasting, not grinding was my thinking ;)

Quote

I was thinking of using a cable clamp to go around the shaft and bolt a piece of sheet metal under the nuts to make a stirrer but your's looks easier.


A cable clamp probably won't bite the shaft tight enough to prevent freewheeling. The clamp "clamps" down tight. Springfield is a far drive... if you don't find what you like, PM me your address and I'll ship you one like this.

I assume you have a heatgun to go with your breadmaker?

CHAD
Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500
Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover
 
PeteH
Thanks for the nice reply Chad, yes I am a fellow Missourian, I was born and raised in Springfield, MO.

My BM has a 5/16" shaft and I was thinking of getting a 5/16" cable clamp and just using the U bolt part of it and bolting a sheet metal stirrer against the flat part of the shaft. I have some 14 ga metal that should be plenty stiff enough for the paddle.

If it doesn't work out I may take you up on your offer to send me one like yours, I would reimburse you of course.

I have always wondered how well the stirring paddle works to move the beans out of the square corners in the container or maybe the air flow from the heat gun helps? I plan to find out this weekend as it will be my first time to use a HG/BM.

I mounted a 4" square metal electrical box on top of the BM where the digital controls used to be and put 2 switches in it, one for the motor and one for the heating element.

I do have a 1200 watt heat gun but thought the built in heating element
might be nice if it needs a little boost.

I have been home roasting about 6 month so I guess I am still a Newbie roaster. I have a digital thermometer and a probe and TC for it so my roasts do come out pretty consistent.

Kind Regards, thanks for your help and comments, any and all suggestions are welcome.

Pete
 
seedlings
Hey, Pete, I haven't been roasting for much longer than you! (hope that doesn't scare anyone away!)

It sounds like you've thought this out pretty well. When I read "cable clamp" I had in mind like a hose clamp... but, if you have the original paddle, that will be your safe bet. Give it a go and let us know all about it. Take pictures or videos... we learn from the successes as well as the failures. There's always something to talk about.

(It's a standing offer for the parts.)

CHAD
Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500
Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover
 
boyntonstu

Quote

seedlings wrote:

Quote

boyntonstu wrote:
Photo of your homemade stirrer please.;)


Here you go Stu. I expect you'll appreciate it.

The big square thing is a ground bond clamp. The wavvy wire is #6 ga solid copper ground wire. My machine didn't come with the stirrer, so I improvised (you know). On the first roast, green beans filled nooks and crannies and have now expanded to fill the voids :)

CHAD


Thanks.


How long did it take for the dark copper patina to develop?


Another hint: I found that I could block most of the heat coming from the BM tub to melt plastic below, by adding several washers between the stirrer drive wheel and the tub.;)


BoyntonStu
Edited by boyntonstu on 02/08/2008 9:53 PM
 
jdmerth
now that's maxing out the bread machine!! nice work!
 
seedlings

Quote

boyntonstu wrote:
How long did it take for the dark copper patina to develop?


Nice isn't it! It didn't take but a few roasts as I remember.

CHAD
Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500
Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover
 
PeteH

Quote

seedlings wrote:
Hey, Pete, I haven't been roasting for much longer than you! (hope that doesn't scare anyone away!)

It sounds like you've thought this out pretty well. When I read "cable clamp" I had in mind like a hose clamp... but, if you have the original paddle, that will be your safe bet. Give it a go and let us know all about it. Take pictures or videos... we learn from the successes as well as the failures. There's always something to talk about.

(It's a standing offer for the parts.)

CHAD


I got my stirring paddle made and am very pleased with it. I made it from 6 ga wire like yours and secured it to the shaft with a slightly modified wire cable clamp which seems to hold very well. The original paddle was plastic is why I didn't use it.

I roasted a Lb. of Indonesian Retro Sumatra and was very surprised at how even the roast came out. I also can't believe how well the wire stirring paddle stirred the beans. Mine turns fairly fast and really kept the beans agitated.

For my first time with a BM/HG it came out well. The beans went from 1st to 2nd crack very fast for some reason. Next time I will cut back on the heat as soon as 1st crack starts. I am sure it went to 2nd C because little bits of the bean started popping off and I could also tell by the color and smoke.

I need to get my TC mounted in it somewhere, I feel like I am in the dark without it although I do have a Laser Thermometer that seems to work pretty well if you just pull the HG away for a few seconds and hit the beans with the Laser.

I will take some pictures of my wire paddle this weekend and post them, isn't if fun to learn something new?

Pete
Edited by PeteH on 02/15/2008 7:43 PM
 
seedlings

Quote

hworx wrote:
...
For my first time with a BM/HG it came out well. The beans went from 1st to 2nd crack very fast for some reason. Next time I will cut back on the heat as soon as 1st crack starts. I am sure it went to 2nd C because little bits of the bean started popping off and I could also tell by the color and smoke.

I need to get my TC mounted in it somewhere, I feel like I am in the dark without it although I do have a Laser Thermometer that seems to work pretty well if you just pull the HG away for a few seconds and hit the beans with the Laser.

I will take some pictures of my wire paddle this weekend and post them, isn't if fun to learn something new?

Pete


Yessssss! Very nice work! Rewarding isn't it? You're right on about dropping the heat when 1C starts. Once you get your TC in there you'll get an idea of what temp 2C (and 1C) usually starts. "They" say 1C starts about 380 and 2C starts around 425, which is pretty much what I see in my BM. Depending on where your TC is mounted, you will get +/- 10 deg of that... BUT, as you roast more it will be CONSISTENT, which is what you want - consistency (if 1C is always at 392 and 2C is always at 419, it doesn't matter that those aren't "the" numbers - they're your numbers). So, with 1C and 2C temp figured out, what I do is full-on heat until about half-way between 1C temp and 2C temp (in my case 400F) and hold that for a couple of minutes to be sure 1C is really over. Then I slowly ramp up... like 10 degrees/minute until I hear the first snaps of 2nd (or until desired roast level). I like it.

The little bits of bean flying off doesn't NECESSARILY mean you hit 2C. It may mean that the temp was just too hot and the outside of the bean was much hotter than the inside (but probably it means 2C).

Hey, when's someone going to invent a coffee-bean-sized temperature transmitter so we can get a REAL idea of the bean mass temp?

CHAD
Edited by seedlings on 02/16/2008 10:24 AM
Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500
Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover
 
bvwelch

Quote

seedlings wrote:

Hey, when's someone going to invent a coffee-bean-sized temperature transmitter so we can get a REAL idea of the bean mass temp?

CHAD


I think the real question is-- what would you be willing to pay for such a gizmo?

A related question-- what are drum roasters using-- wireless, or not? I assume you could run the TC wire out to the cooler end of the spit/axle, and then have a wireless transmitter to your readout. Again, if you don't have something like this, what would you pay for one? I could build it, but I don't want to find out that you can buy the same item for $10 at Harbor Freight. :-)

bill
 
seedlings

Quote

bvwelch wrote:
I think the real question is-- what would you be willing to pay for such a gizmo?

A related question-- what are drum roasters using-- wireless, or not? I assume you could run the TC wire out to the cooler end of the spit/axle, and then have a wireless transmitter to your readout.



To your first question... I'd give... $50 for it? Do you think that'll cover the R&D? I'm sure it'll cover parts ;)

Second question - you're right on. Check out page 3 of:

http://forum.home...owstart=40

CHAD
Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500
Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover
 
bvwelch
Thanks for the link. I knew I'd read about wireless somewhere, just didn't remember where. for around $40, wireless would seem to be the way to go. I wouldn't want to try to compete with that, even though I'd try to do roaster-specific things, like that custom unit from New Zealand that was mentioned elsewhere on this forum.

I'm glad the router speed controller is working out for you guys. I would have tried it, but I had read that it didn't have a good range of control. I'm glad to hear otherwise. But I'll stay with my homebrew approach, at least until I run out of parts. :-)
Edited by bvwelch on 02/17/2008 2:37 AM
 
seedlings

Quote

bvwelch wrote:
I'm glad to hear otherwise. But I'll stay with my homebrew approach, at least until I run out of parts. :-)


From what you've told me I don't think running out of parts will happen any time soon!Grin

CHAD
Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500
Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover
 
stuartgrant
Hey Chad/others,

Digging up this old thread for a few questions...

We tried a 1.3kg (2.9#) roast once... didn't turn out so good! Once the beans expanded we ended up losing quite a few over the edge of the bread pan... max capacity was probably more like 1.2kg (2.6#). The giant roast (also a Sumatran!) ended up quite uneven as well as having some tipping. Not cool.

We were able, for a while, to do 1kg (2.2#) roasts quite comfortably. Once our heat gun started to deteriorate as it got older (100 roasts+), we got tipping at that capacity and had to drop it back to 800g (1.8#). Interesting that this happened, yes? [The cause could have been something else, but that was our best guess!]

Anyway, my question was this: does the modded paddle mix the beans much more efficiently? Does it slow down the rpm and/or put strain in the motor? I think agitation is one of the key limitations in the Corretto (HG/BM) system, but hadn't thought to mod the paddle!

Cheers
Stuart.
Edited by stuartgrant on 09/06/2009 11:11 AM
 
bvwelch
Greetings Stuart,

The older bread machines that I've modded, have powerful motors, and no problems with even the largest home-made metal paddles I've built. In fact, one design idea that I 'borrowed' from David, was to chop the bottom out of a bread pan, and bolt it onto the bottom of a large steel bowl, and then sit a Turbo Oven on top. My first paddle was so large, I could sling the beans way, way up and over the rim of the bowl, even while green ( I didn't have the Turbo Oven covering the top during that test )

A couple of other things I ran into -- Be sure to get the 'tall' type of bread machine. Where the loaf is 'vertical'. This gives you more distance from the heat gun to the beans.

Throw away the original bread machine lid, and make a simple replacement from aluminum sheet. Cut a small hole and stick the snout of the heat gun through -- hands-free roasting. -bill
 
seedlings
Stuart, I don't think the stirrer had much to do with it, but profile did. I had to preheat and use much higher than normal temperatures initially, for the first 6 or 7 minutes so that I could really back off the heat later in the roast. The heatgun gets very close to the beans, and if they don't have enough heat early, then raising the heat later only chars some of the beans. Bear in mind that I have the lid on the roaster, and I believe this is important. I did lose some beans over the lip of the hopper as you did. I haven't done that large of a quantaty since. I regularly roast 1.25# give or take. I have a plastic cup for a scoop, and roast by volume, but I have measured the weight, just not every roast.

Looking back, 2.2 pounds is right, not the 2.5 in the original title... and it was pre-roast weight.

Oh, and I haven't done a video in a while. I could do another max-out on my latest machine.

CHAD

**EDIT: I changed the title to read "2.2" pounds instead of 2.5
Edited by seedlings on 09/06/2009 8:37 PM
Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500
Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover
 
bvwelch

Quote

seedlings wrote:
I haven't done a video in a while. I could do another max-out on my latest machine.


Please do-- with all this rain, more/new videos are welcome. Been so bored I was watching weed-whacker videos -- who knew they were using them for RC boats! -bill
 
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