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CoffeeAir II Roaster Build
allenb
Top  #126 Print Post
Posted on 08/15/2010 7:55 PM
Looks like you're nearing the finish line!

If you get a moment can you post a sketch showing how you're wiring the 240 through the SSR and on to the elements.

I'm not understanding how the SSR sees 240? I assumed you would just be feeding one of the two hot legs through the SSR in which case the SSR would only be seeing 120V?

Allen
1/2 lb and 1 lb drum, Siemens Sirocco fluidbed, presspot, chemex, cajun biggin brewer from the backwoods of Louisiana
 
allenb
Top  #127 Print Post
Posted on 08/15/2010 8:12 PM
I sketched up a block diagram of how I would wire it using one SSR and I guess during the off cycle the SSR does see 240V so I answered my own question.

Never mind.ThumbsUp

Allen
1/2 lb and 1 lb drum, Siemens Sirocco fluidbed, presspot, chemex, cajun biggin brewer from the backwoods of Louisiana
 
seedlings
Top  #128 Print Post
Posted on 08/16/2010 7:29 AM
Probable schem

CHAD
seedlings attached the following image:
13schemcoffeairii.jpg
Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500
Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover
 
dja
Top  #129 Print Post
Posted on 08/16/2010 7:37 PM
have your cousin cabbage onto a short piece of din rail and see if you can get all of your components din rail mountable.
if you don't know what din rail is your cousin will.
David.ThumbsUp
Edited by dja on 08/16/2010 7:38 PM
I pour Iron and roast Coffee BeansThumbsUp
If life seems normal your not going fast enough Mario Andrette
 
Unta
Top  #130 Print Post
Posted on 08/16/2010 8:12 PM
Been in the construction industry for the last 15 years, and I've never read/heard the word cabbage used as a verb..
thank you homeroasters.org. Again, my life is better because of you.
sean
Sean Harrington
educate.
 
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dja
Top  #131 Print Post
Posted on 08/16/2010 10:05 PM
I flunked English!
I pour Iron and roast Coffee BeansThumbsUp
If life seems normal your not going fast enough Mario Andrette
 
Unta
Top  #132 Print Post
Posted on 08/17/2010 2:10 AM
not a knock, just an observation. It made me laugh DJA.
Sean
Sean Harrington
educate.
 
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RoasterRob
Top  #133 Print Post
Posted on 08/17/2010 2:20 AM
Been in NDT for 20 years and I know a welder called Cabbage, other welders I know by nickname - Troll, Crayfish, Spanky, Clinky, Vege, Tiger, to name a few.

Rob
VBM Minimax 2gp, 1gp Reneka Techno, 2 gp la Pavoni Pub, la Cimbali M28, SJ Maz, FB 6kg HM roaster and other stuff
 
Dan
Top  #134 Print Post
Posted on 08/17/2010 1:42 PM
I don't think SSRs come in DIN rail mounts. The reason being that they need to be heat sinked. Perhaps if the heat sink was DIN rail, then you could attach the SSR to that.

Typically, you put fuses on both legs of a 240V power line, the reason being that both are 'hot.' On 120V, you only need a fuse on the hot leg (typically black wire).
 
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seedlings
Top  #135 Print Post
Posted on 08/17/2010 1:56 PM
Two fuses, thanks, Dan. Since the 50A SSR will only be passing 15A of current, do you think it still needs a heat sink?

CHAD
Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500
Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover
 
Dan
Top  #136 Print Post
Posted on 08/17/2010 2:37 PM
Maybe, maybe not. smile What I would do is bolt it to your metal enclosure with some heat sink grease. That will give it some protection.
 
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allenb
Top  #137 Print Post
Posted on 08/17/2010 3:10 PM
Chad,

Unless the physical size of the back plate of the 50 amp SSR is MUCH larger than a typical 25 amp then I would recommend some sort of a real finned heat sink unless the panel it's mounting to is pretty thick and, as Dan pointed out, includes heat conducting paste.

Allen
1/2 lb and 1 lb drum, Siemens Sirocco fluidbed, presspot, chemex, cajun biggin brewer from the backwoods of Louisiana
 
dja
Top  #138 Print Post
Posted on 08/17/2010 8:27 PM
oops, sorry about that guy's forgot about the need for a heat sink on the SSR.

must not of ate all my lima beans yesterday

David
I pour Iron and roast Coffee BeansThumbsUp
If life seems normal your not going fast enough Mario Andrette
 
dja
Top  #139 Print Post
Posted on 08/19/2010 10:49 PM
Chad; here's a pic of the roast chamber that I showed you back in the winter when I was working on a air roaster. Well all the activity with people building air roasters jogged my creative side and this is the roast chamber now all I need is about 1800 watts of heat and a very strong air source.ThumbsUp
dja attached the following image:
roastchamber.jpg
Edited by dja on 08/19/2010 10:50 PM
I pour Iron and roast Coffee BeansThumbsUp
If life seems normal your not going fast enough Mario Andrette
 
seedlings
Top  #140 Print Post
Posted on 08/25/2010 2:18 PM
OK, I have some cash on hand, and picked up the 10-3 w/g, breaker, high-current switches, etc, to get back on track!

However, I'm a little stumped on the specific type of internal fuse holder I should use. What I can find are just AGC-type fuse holders like in the automotive stores. I'm not sure 15A of 220V would be wise through those... one loose terminal and that plastic will melt quick.

Suggestions? (cheap suggestions)

CHAD
Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500
Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover
 
Dan
Top  #141 Print Post
Posted on 08/25/2010 2:37 PM
You need to go to a larger size. Go to a hardware store and get two midget fuse holders and two fuses for them.
 
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dja
Top  #142 Print Post
Posted on 08/25/2010 6:13 PM
electrical supply house, or give reletive that is an electrician a call. or if close to grainger walk in tell them you want fuses and a holder for KTK-20 fuses. Fuses will be about 3/8" in diameter
I pour Iron and roast Coffee BeansThumbsUp
If life seems normal your not going fast enough Mario Andrette
 
dja
Top  #143 Print Post
Posted on 08/25/2010 6:17 PM
something along the line of this from grainger

Fuseholder 30a
Item # 2DC47

David
I pour Iron and roast Coffee BeansThumbsUp
If life seems normal your not going fast enough Mario Andrette
 
seedlings
Top  #144 Print Post
Posted on 08/26/2010 10:34 AM
Hardware stores were no help. I went to American Electrical and bought a 3 position midget fuse block for $10.95. Then they wanted to sell me fuses for $17.95 each. Went to Lowe's and they sell them $8 for two fuses. These fuses are 13/32nds x 1.5" long. David, it would've been nice to find a fuse block for the less expensive 3/8" fuses. hopefully I won't have to replace these.

Should have time to work on electronics this weekend.

CHAD
Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500
Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover
 
dja
Top  #145 Print Post
Posted on 08/26/2010 10:53 AM
sorry about the cost, didn't look at the price of the fuses, Lowes is cheaper cause they buy em in a rail car load, instead of one box at a time.Shock
I pour Iron and roast Coffee BeansThumbsUp
If life seems normal your not going fast enough Mario Andrette
 
seedlings
Top  #146 Print Post
Posted on 08/29/2010 5:38 PM
I've made a little progress today... here are the electronic guts:

i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb54/seedlings/100_6837.jpg


And the front:

i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb54/seedlings/100_6838.jpg


I have run into a bit of a snag... It just occurred to me that I don't know how to mount the thermocouple. I mean, it is easy enough to mount to the hopper, but the logistics of TC wire 5' long - on a removable, dumpable hopper - are elusive..?

Also, the 220V is wired from the breaker box with #10, but would it be OK for 5' cord from the wall to the roaster to be #12? **edit: found #10 scraps at work.

Thanks,
CHAD
Edited by seedlings on 08/30/2010 8:59 AM
Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500
Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover
 
Unta
Top  #147 Print Post
Posted on 08/30/2010 10:22 AM
How about a nice CHADesque arrow/explanation of each of those componants for the electrically inept, ie: ME smile
It looks good I just don't know what I'm looking @..
Sean
Sean Harrington
educate.
 
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seedlings
Top  #148 Print Post
Posted on 08/30/2010 10:56 AM

Quote

Unta wrote:
How about a nice CHADesque arrow/explanation of each of those componants for the electrically inept, ie: ME smile
It looks good I just don't know what I'm looking @..
Sean


i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb54/seedlings/13wiregutz1.jpg

CHAD
Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500
Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover
 
Dan
Top  #149 Print Post
Posted on 08/30/2010 11:49 AM
Very nicely done! I like seeing industrial controls, equipment, and good wiring techniques like this. Attention to these make our hobby safer, serious, and substantial. Dan
 
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seedlings
Top  #150 Print Post
Posted on 08/30/2010 2:46 PM
Hey, Dan - I remember you pointing out these safety items before, which is why they're incorporated. So, thank you.


TC placement...The PID will be controlling the heat based on input from this TC, so... is the best placement under the hopper, in the hot air only (position 3 below)?

What do you think?

CHAD
seedlings attached the following image:
13btmetwheretoputit.jpg
Edited by seedlings on 08/30/2010 2:46 PM
Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500
Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover
 
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