Homeroasters - Home Roasting Coffee Community » BUILDING A ROASTER » Fluidbed Roaster
Who is here? 1 guest(s)
Page 2 of 11: 12345...11
 Print Thread
My 1kg Electric Air Roaster build
greencardigan
Top  #26 Print Post
Posted on 12/19/2010 6:01 AM
Rob, what size heatsink do you use on the triac? Or did you heatsink it to a metal enclosure?
 
RoasterRob
Top  #27 Print Post
Posted on 12/19/2010 12:44 PM

Quote

greencardigan wrote:
Rob, what size heatsink do you use on the triac? Or did you heatsink it to a metal enclosure?


I used this one should be at the top of the page below

CAT. NO. HH8502

http://www.jaycar...SUBMIT.y=0

But if you can fit a bigger one, then do so.


Rob
VBM Minimax 2gp, 1gp Reneka Techno, 2 gp la Pavoni Pub, la Cimbali M28, SJ Maz, FB 6kg HM roaster and other stuff
 
greencardigan
Top  #28 Print Post
Posted on 12/21/2010 5:46 AM

Quote

RoasterRob wrote:

Yup, looks just like the ones i used. For Caps - I haven't been able to get 150 nF caps lately. I have been told to go for higher rating not lower ie 200nF not 100nF.

Rob


I ended up getting 220nF caps for C1 and C2. Is that going to be ok?
 
RoasterRob
Top  #29 Print Post
Posted on 12/21/2010 10:32 AM

Quote

greencardigan wrote:

Quote

RoasterRob wrote:

Yup, looks just like the ones i used. For Caps - I haven't been able to get 150 nF caps lately. I have been told to go for higher rating not lower ie 200nF not 100nF.

Rob


I ended up getting 220nF caps for C1 and C2. Is that going to be ok?


I believe that should work ok, but you be able to tell me for sure when you try it out ;)

Rob
VBM Minimax 2gp, 1gp Reneka Techno, 2 gp la Pavoni Pub, la Cimbali M28, SJ Maz, FB 6kg HM roaster and other stuff
 
seedlings
Top  #30 Print Post
Posted on 12/21/2010 12:10 PM
Just want you guys to know this is a great thread!

CHAD
Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500
Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover
 
greencardigan
Top  #31 Print Post
Posted on 12/21/2010 8:40 PM
Rats! It's not working. :|

I'm testing the dimmer on a 40W bulb. It comes on but won't dim regardless of what the pot or trimmer are set to.

I've checked the circuit a few times and it all seems good. Only thing is I've used the 220nF cap instead of 150nF for C1 and C2.

What type of capacitors do C2 and C3 need to be? I've used 630v polyester caps.
http://www.jaycar...rm=KEYWORD
Edited by greencardigan on 12/21/2010 8:41 PM
 
greencardigan
Top  #32 Print Post
Posted on 12/21/2010 10:05 PM
Replaced the triac and diac but still not working.

Removing the diac stops the test bulb lighting so the problem seems to be in the timing part of the circuit.
 
RoasterRob
Top  #33 Print Post
Posted on 12/22/2010 12:50 AM

Quote

greencardigan wrote:
Replaced the triac and diac but still not working.

Removing the diac stops the test bulb lighting so the problem seems to be in the timing part of the circuit.


The caps are not the correct type though I don't know if if that matters. I would look to get the correct caps. Are you sure you have the triac connected up correctly. I would also look really hard at how the Pot and the trimmer are wired in. I confused myself more than once with these.
Other than that I can't offer much help.
Rob
VBM Minimax 2gp, 1gp Reneka Techno, 2 gp la Pavoni Pub, la Cimbali M28, SJ Maz, FB 6kg HM roaster and other stuff
 
greencardigan
Top  #34 Print Post
Posted on 12/22/2010 1:24 AM
What's the right type for C2 and C3?

Fairly sure I have it all wired correctly. I'll check again though.

 
RoasterRob
Top  #35 Print Post
Posted on 12/22/2010 4:09 AM

Quote

greencardigan wrote:
What's the right type for C2 and C3?

Fairly sure I have it all wired correctly. I'll check again though.



These are the type I used.

http://australia....;R=0210516
http://australia....;R=0210487
VBM Minimax 2gp, 1gp Reneka Techno, 2 gp la Pavoni Pub, la Cimbali M28, SJ Maz, FB 6kg HM roaster and other stuff
 
greencardigan
Top  #36 Print Post
Posted on 12/22/2010 5:58 AM
Ok, I've ordered some of these. They should be here on Friday. I'll let you know how they go.
 
greencardigan
Top  #37 Print Post
Posted on 12/24/2010 3:28 AM
No luck. I've replaced all the caps with the correct value and type and also replaced the triac and diac again. Quite frustrating!!

It's almost got me beaten. I'll have 1 more good check to make sure I've got everything connected properly then I'm going to look for other alternatives.

Merry Xmas smile
 
RoasterRob
Top  #38 Print Post
Posted on 12/24/2010 4:51 AM

Quote

greencardigan wrote:
No luck. I've replaced all the caps with the correct value and type and also replaced the triac and diac again. Quite frustrating!!

It's almost got me beaten. I'll have 1 more good check to make sure I've got everything connected properly then I'm going to look for other alternatives.

Merry Xmas smile


Any chance you put a couple of photos up of the circuit board show both sides and hopefully all the connections?
Rob
VBM Minimax 2gp, 1gp Reneka Techno, 2 gp la Pavoni Pub, la Cimbali M28, SJ Maz, FB 6kg HM roaster and other stuff
 
greencardigan
Top  #39 Print Post
Posted on 12/24/2010 5:08 AM
All sorted. I have dimming!

I did a bit of googling and read that some triacs require T1 and T2 connected the correct way. I had assumed they were i
 
greencardigan
Top  #40 Print Post
Posted on 12/24/2010 5:10 AM
All sorted. I have dimming! Persistence pays off.

I did a bit of googling and read that some triacs require T1 and T2 connected the correct way. I had assumed they were interchangeable.

Anyway, it dims my light bulb ok. Will try the VC 2moro.
 
greencardigan
Top  #41 Print Post
Posted on 12/24/2010 9:55 PM
Here's some pics of the VC speed controller.

www.greencardigan.com/misc/air_roaster_build/dimmer_circuit.jpg

www.greencardigan.com/misc/air_roaster_build/dimmer_240V_1KW.jpg

I hope to start on the heating chamber sometime soon.

And I found a place I can get scrap 4'x4' aluminum tube offcuts. Would that be a suitable size roast chamber for roasting between 500g to 1kg?
 
RoasterRob
Top  #42 Print Post
Posted on 12/25/2010 1:04 AM
JMO a 4" tube (area 12.56" sqr) is good for 650grams of green, more if you want to make it quite tall. An equivalent height 4 x 4" SHS (area 16"sqr) would be good 830 grams.
Rob
VBM Minimax 2gp, 1gp Reneka Techno, 2 gp la Pavoni Pub, la Cimbali M28, SJ Maz, FB 6kg HM roaster and other stuff
 
greencardigan
Top  #43 Print Post
Posted on 12/26/2010 1:10 AM
I'm considering options for removing the roasted beans.

Any thoughts on this concept?

www.greencardigan.com/misc/air_roaster_build/bean_extraction_option1.jpg

The hinged door would be swung inwards blocking the top of the RC and the air should blow the bean out the side?
Edited by greencardigan on 12/26/2010 1:12 AM
 
seedlings
Top  #44 Print Post
Posted on 12/26/2010 8:33 AM

Quote

greencardigan wrote:
.. the air should blow the bean out the side?


Yes it will!

Is your RC going to be permanently mounted/attached to the roaster?

CHAD
Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500
Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover
 
RoasterRob
Top  #45 Print Post
Posted on 12/26/2010 3:02 PM

Quote

greencardigan wrote:
I'm considering options for removing the roasted beans.

Any thoughts on this concept?

www.greencardigan.com/misc/air_roaster_build/bean_extraction_option1.jpg

The hinged door would be swung inwards blocking the top of the RC and the air should blow the bean out the side?


That should work. You no doubt intend putting another length of 4x4 as a chute over this.
A simpler way of doing it would be to have a removable RC that you just lift off and dump. Most all of the RCs that i have built to date work this way.

Rob
VBM Minimax 2gp, 1gp Reneka Techno, 2 gp la Pavoni Pub, la Cimbali M28, SJ Maz, FB 6kg HM roaster and other stuff
 
greencardigan
Top  #46 Print Post
Posted on 12/26/2010 4:10 PM
Yes, it would need a chute. But you're right, it would be much easier and simpler to have a removable RC.
 
greencardigan
Top  #47 Print Post
Posted on 12/27/2010 5:45 AM
Here's the nichrome wire I took from some little blower heaters. I wound it up into 4 coils. Each coil is 1200W and about 2' long. I'll try wrapping them around some cement board.

www.greencardigan.com/misc/air_roaster_build/recoiled_nichrome.jpg
Edited by greencardigan on 12/27/2010 5:51 AM
 
seedlings
Top  #48 Print Post
Posted on 12/27/2010 7:26 AM
Make sure there is space between each coil loop (as even spacing as possible), no shorting coils, and good airflow. Try not to run the wire through a small hole drilled through the board- my experimental elements failed in that spot.

http://homeroaste...post_10184
homeroasters.org/php/forum/attachments/element%20failure[1081].jpg
homeroasters.org/php/forum/attachments/element%201[1082].jpg

On the second, real picture the element failed on the outer edge where there wasn't much airflow.

CHAD
Edited by seedlings on 12/27/2010 7:31 AM
Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500
Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover
 
JETROASTER
Top  #49 Print Post
Posted on 12/27/2010 8:56 AM

Quote

greencardigan wrote:
I'm considering options for removing the roasted beans.

Any thoughts on this concept?

www.greencardigan.com/misc/air_roaster_build/bean_extraction_option1.jpg

The hinged door would be swung inwards blocking the top of the RC and the air should blow the bean out the side?


Great project! My 2 cents on bean evacuation; I think removal via air-stream will work with the chute positioned lower in the RC. The higher the position, the more velocity you'll need.
My non-scientific guess is that after 80% of your beans have left, the remaining 20% will be bouncing around.
That could be remedied.....with alot of work.
How important is that feature?
Good Luck, Really like your project!! -Scott
 
Unta
Top  #50 Print Post
Posted on 12/27/2010 12:51 PM
I'm with scott. The hinged flap being so high will likely evacuate most but your likely going to have some left in the RC.. I had an idea a while back in the coffee air two thread of hinging the portion of the RC that is sloped. (its on page 1 of this thread, there is also another picture of chads idea/thoughts about the hinged RC here. http://forum.home...rowstart=0
Though with the size machine your dealing with and depending on you ability to fabricate, the easiest way to remove beans is going to be dumping, via either a hinged set up or a removable RC as Rob had mentioned.

sean
Edited by Unta on 12/27/2010 12:53 PM
Sean Harrington
educate.
 
Web
Page 2 of 11: 12345...11
Jump to Forum: