Homeroasters - Home Roasting Coffee Community » CONSUMER ZONE » MOBILE MODS
Who is here? 1 guest(s)
Page 2 of 4: 1234
 Print Thread
Takin' It To The Street
JETROASTER
Top  #26 Print Post
Posted on 07/30/2010 1:34 PM
Both points taken. Further, this is not a mistake new to me. A friend (older and wiser) helped me put the roasting biz into excel. I was amazed at what came out the other end. It certainly changed my approach. This deserves due diligence as well.
I would be curious of the people that have worked the farmers markets etc. What are the high demand items? Just because the numbers work on a product, doesn't mean anyone wants it.
As always, Thanks-Scott
 
ginny
Top  #27 Print Post
Posted on 07/30/2010 3:26 PM
OK, two hands I understand, four would be better Scott!

Most local yokel guys at a shop near you have the same with half the hands cooking buns while the other is making the coffee/pouring over grounds/
making iced coffee from scratch (read espresso most likely here unless you create
an extremely special "iced coffee."

and of course that is seasonal, the rest the time you must have a "bad weather" brew!!

tuff call Scott.

You have the coffee knowledge, you have the equipment and clearly the savvy, talent and guile to do it (along with the way cool glasses) go try out ideas and see what works.

Get the cart gassed up, use some quiet portable power for a week, toss on the siphon, an espresso a machine and hit a local corner that is NOT TO BUSY for a few days. You will now what you can and want to do after that plus you have the ability to make it change overnight. Someone has a party and wants "The Espresso Truckster" on site, you be there.

Tons-o-possibilities but until you take that "little red truckster" out for a ride you will never know.

My guess is that you will toss more brewed coffee out then you would espresso so clearly having that ability is not something you should not toss away before you have even given it a chance.

Would you serve your Grandmother 30 minute old brewed coffee? No, any shop can do that and do. Not Scott...

love ya,

ginny
 
allenb
Top  #28 Print Post
Posted on 07/30/2010 7:38 PM
I think Ginny is spot-on in saying you have to give it a whirl to know what the demand for each item is going to be. The demand for drip versus espresso based drinks will vary depending on location/clientele. A college town location right next to the university is going to be big on espresso based drinks and a coin toss on drip. OTOH, with a spell binding siphon show you might end up changing the balance even in that venue.

If you decide to do espresso it's obviously a necessity to set up for speed to avoid the grumbling line.
1/2 lb and 1 lb drum, Siemens Sirocco fluidbed, presspot, chemex, cajun biggin brewer from the backwoods of Louisiana
 
JETROASTER
Top  #29 Print Post
Posted on 07/31/2010 9:27 AM
I wouldn't rule out anything until due diligence is done. With that in mind, here's an idea for espresso based drinks.
If Jimbo can admit to a 'decent' beverage at charbucks, than I can admit to owning a Miele CVA 4070.
It's a super automatic that draws around 12 amps. It's nearly hands free, and looks cute.
There has to be a way to get a respectable shot out of this thing.

The question; Does this use more elec than I would need for a more traditional machine? Thanks,Scott
JETROASTER attached the following image:
miele_coffee_systems_cva_4066_4.jpg
 
allenb
Top  #30 Print Post
Posted on 07/31/2010 10:50 AM

Quote

freshbeans wrote:
I wouldn't rule out anything until due diligence is done. With that in mind, here's an idea for espresso based drinks.
If Jimbo can admit to a 'decent' beverage at charbucks, than I can admit to owning a Miele CVA 4070.
It's a super automatic that draws around 12 amps. It's nearly hands free, and looks cute.
There has to be a way to get a respectable shot out of this thing.
The question; Does this use more elec than I would need for a more traditional machine? Thanks,Scott


A Pavoni single group with a boiler draws 13.5 amps which is probably pretty standard for this type of machine. Even at 13.5 amps, these 120 v rigs will require you to wait 2-5 min between long frothings to rebuild steam.

Can your machine keep the frothing going without long pauses?

An obvious option would be a separate frother.

One factor affecting how close a superauto can come to a traditonal is how adjustable it is. Commercial superautos are able to have the tamp pressure adjusted which makes all the difference in the world. While working at a roastery a few years back, along with roasting, I also set up a few Franke (ESI) superautos. When tamp pressure, grind size and water temp was right on we got pretty close to what you could get in a traditional machine. Of course, if the customer base is average milk based drinkers, the difference may not be that discernible.
1/2 lb and 1 lb drum, Siemens Sirocco fluidbed, presspot, chemex, cajun biggin brewer from the backwoods of Louisiana
 
ginny
Top  #31 Print Post
Posted on 07/31/2010 12:32 PM
Scott:

way cool look.

if you get a small generator you can stick it under the bed someplace and it would most likely be noise free.

Your theme from retro, to art deco to state of the art will work. Very sexy and complete in a way since coffee has been around for those periods.

Are you renting the camel or will you keep her in the warehouse and feed her only coffee trees and palm milk??

Gotta tell ya Scott you have the makings of an incredible cart.

The truckster is at this point simply your canvas!

I think we all need to send Scott pictures of cool things we find that may work for his Truckster!! Post them here.

ginny
Shock
 
JETROASTER
Top  #32 Print Post
Posted on 08/02/2010 7:37 AM
Hi Allen,
Milk froth/steam; not the machines strong point. It really does froth great, but it doesn't heat the milk. It uses a steam jet to recirc the milk past an air induction fitting. Froths quick, but no meaningful heat. I can eliminate the induction fitting and go straight steam, but I just don't see it keeping up w/ a high demand for hot milk.
So I think I'll need some form of steamer/frother.

Ginny, I don't have a line on the camel yet! I appreciate
the encouragement.

I'll take any and all ideas, then narrow the list as the project moves forward.
Anything that doesn't fit in the truckster, might wind up in the ambulance.
That's J.T.R. part 2 Thanks All -Scott
 
milowebailey
Top  #33 Print Post
Posted on 08/02/2010 8:48 AM
Consider a lever Espresso machine. some of them have propane heaters. I have one that's a dual heat source.... 240v internal heater coil and it has a propane burner under the boiler. Needs only water and propane.... functional and retro

http://www.espres...roduct=152
Edited by milowebailey on 08/02/2010 8:48 AM
 
JETROASTER
Top  #34 Print Post
Posted on 08/02/2010 11:43 AM
It's on my wishlist! Thanks,Scott
 
ginny
Top  #35 Print Post
Posted on 08/02/2010 12:04 PM
Thanks for the information.

I had no idea they made a propane Espresso machine??
 
JETROASTER
Top  #36 Print Post
Posted on 08/11/2010 10:49 AM
Having checked over the Miele super-auto, it seems that tamp pressure is not adjustable. Brew temp, grind, coffee
quantity, and water quantity are adjustable.
I think it's a matter of finding the sweet spot. Not being a huge espresso guy, what's the magic indicator?
Also looking for a good bean for testing this thing....In stock I have Honduran FTO old crop, Dominican FTO, Sumatran, Costa Rican Lourdes..., Yirgacheffe, Honduran new crop.
As always, Thanks, -Scott
 
Unta
Top  #37 Print Post
Posted on 08/11/2010 11:39 AM
Taste, all The magic aside. Pressure,water temp,grind and tamp pressure, all variables should be refined. Though if your marketing frothy milk drinks, pulling perfect shots isn't quite as important. If your pride can handle it. ;)
Sean
Sean Harrington
educate.
 
Web
Dan
Top  #38 Print Post
Posted on 08/11/2010 11:40 AM
Scott, presence of crema is a good sign of a good shot. Also, and these are just guidelines, you want all three of these things to happen at the same time for a double-shot: 30 seconds from start to finish, coffee stream just beginning to turn blonde (light), and 2 ounces of espresso in the cup. If you nail all these then you'll be very close. When you do, taste the result. If it is bitter, reduce your water temperature, if acidic, then increase it.

I would not start with single origins for espresso testing unless it is a Brazil. Get yourself a preblend like SweetMarias "New Classic."
 
Web
JETROASTER
Top  #39 Print Post
Posted on 08/11/2010 2:33 PM
Great stuff with time/color/quantity...thanks. Why is the Brazil singled out?
I do have some scary Vietnam robusta kicking around.
-Scott
 
seedlings
Top  #40 Print Post
Posted on 08/11/2010 3:19 PM
High quality Brazils do well on their own for espresso and are a common base for blending. Notice Dan said 'start with' because there are a great many single origins that make nice 'spro, but you would be well served to know what you want first. I didn't know what I want, and did all my learning through reading, not tasting... I may have crap espresso, but I like it fine.

Another option is to visit a local espresso bar... if there is one worth a hoot... and sample theirs, perhaps even pick up some of their beans (if what you taste is any good) and use that for calibration of grind/dose for a 25~30s 2oz shot.

Let any recently roasted coffee rest for 4+ days before pulling as 'spro.

CHAD
Edited by seedlings on 08/11/2010 3:23 PM
Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500
Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover
 
JETROASTER
Top  #41 Print Post
Posted on 08/11/2010 4:00 PM
I think I'm looking for something to slice through the milk,
rather than a traditional Italian style. As Sean pointed out, this is not all about pride. Sometimes it's just about what they want.
I've never roasted a pre-blend, how does that work out?
-Scott
 
Dan
Top  #42 Print Post
Posted on 08/11/2010 4:56 PM
Roasting preblends can be a challenge. The reason is that each bean in the mix is going to go through first and second crack at its own pace. I've had preblends that begin cracking and never stop. What this means is that going by cracks is not your best temperature guideline. For preblends, what I do is go by smell.

Chad's suggestion is a good one. Buy some roasted beans you know are good and then begin there. This reminds me, what I did when I taught myself how to pull shots was buy roasted/ground coffee from Illy. That way, the roast and grind factors had been dealt with and I could focus on tamping and timing the shot.
 
Web
JETROASTER
Top  #43 Print Post
Posted on 08/12/2010 7:58 AM
That makes good sense. I'll grab some Illy. The Miele unit has a chute to bypass the hopper and grinder. I'll drop in some Illy, create a base-line, and work off that.
I'm hoping to get some tech info from the folks at Miele.
I'm curious what the pump can handle.
I could potentially add some tamp pressure by adding some schim below 3 springs. They seem to control the down pressure. That would be nice, but only if the pump can handle it. We'll see.
As always, thanks for the insights. -Scott
 
JETROASTER
Top  #44 Print Post
Posted on 08/18/2010 10:34 AM
Concerning pumps;
These P1 pumps are something I see frequently in my biz. I was also familiar with the cp7.

http://www.invensyscontrolseurope.com/applianceproduct.aspx?id=3064

The cp7 is listed for small coffee machines. The P1 is not. The P1 actually seems like the better pump.

Is there some reason why it should NOT be used for a coffee maker ? Thanks, Scott
 
Dan
Top  #45 Print Post
Posted on 08/18/2010 12:07 PM
The CP7 is a diaphram pump, commonly called a vibe pump, and is used in most home and prosumer espresso machines, but never commercial machines. I am not familiar with the P1 style.

Most commercial machines use a carbonator, rotary vane type pump like the Procon.

I put a Shur-Flor triple-diaphram pump on my prosumer machine. I believe there are available in 12VDC, too.
 
Web
JETROASTER
Top  #46 Print Post
Posted on 08/18/2010 12:12 PM
The P1 pumps on both strokes. On the Shur-Flo pumps;
How does psi translate to bars?
-Scott
 
JETROASTER
Top  #47 Print Post
Posted on 08/18/2010 12:34 PM

Quote

freshbeans wrote:
The P1 pumps on both strokes. On the Shur-Flo pumps;
How does psi translate to bars?
-Scott



Found it 1 millibar = 0.014 503 773 801 pound/square inch
 
Dan
Top  #48 Print Post
Posted on 08/18/2010 12:47 PM
What I meant to say was that I understand how the P1 works, but don't know if it is a good solution for an espresso machine.

What you want is a minimum of 8 bars, but anything over 10 is overkill. My Shur-Flo came with a pump bypass valve. I set it at 130psi.
 
Web
JETROASTER
Top  #49 Print Post
Posted on 08/18/2010 3:29 PM
What are the wrinkles in upsizing a pump on this type of unit (Miele CVA) ? -Scott
 
Dan
Top  #50 Print Post
Posted on 08/19/2010 12:02 PM
I took a look at the 4000 series. It looks like a good system for your cart. It is integrated and the right size. At that price, I have to figure that the pump they supply is good as it is. I couldn't find what pump they used. I suppose you could call them.
 
Web
Page 2 of 4: 1234
Jump to Forum: