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"B" model panel buttons failure
ModemMisuser
Top  #1 Print Post
Posted on 03/07/2012 5:57 AM
So, I have a "B" model HotTop, and have used it for probably a little over 200 cycles. It works great. However, the panel buttons are essentially failed.

Though, the way in which they've failed makes little sense. I have to press a button a random number of times for it to register. Sometimes it's the first try (rarely), other times I sit there for over a minute just spam-pressing the button as fast as I can before it'll register.

I've separated the front panel from the circuit board, and pressed the buttons directly, to the same result.

I don't want to spend $120 on a new panel, so I'm wondering if anyone's aware of a way to repair this, or has a way to wire in new buttons (pinouts for the panel?).
 
Randy G
Top  #2 Print Post
Posted on 03/07/2012 9:36 PM
If you are in the US, contact Michael at Hottop USA and give him the details. Maybe he can help.


Life's too short to drink bad coffee.
 
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ModemMisuser
Top  #3 Print Post
Posted on 03/08/2012 5:35 AM
I did. He said (and I'm paraphrasing; he was very polite and professional) "Too bad, out of warranty, $120 plx."
Edited by ModemMisuser on 03/08/2012 5:35 AM
 
ModemMisuser
Top  #4 Print Post
Posted on 03/15/2012 7:26 AM
No help eh? :/
 
Lylabrown
Top  #5 Print Post
Posted on 03/17/2012 2:19 PM
Go for it.

home.surewest.net/frcn/Coffee/BeanRoaster2005/controlBoard.jpg

In the image above, the switches look to be spst momentary type.

Readily available here: http://www.radios...Id=3020763

The tricky part will be de-soldering the old one off the board.
Other than that, it's a simple fix. I've done it half a dozen times, with no failures.
Btw. my soldering skills are pitiful.

Good Luck

Russ
 
allenb
Top  #6 Print Post
Posted on 03/17/2012 8:17 PM

Quote

Lylabrown wrote:
Go for it.

home.surewest.net/frcn/Coffee/BeanRoaster2005/controlBoard.jpg

In the image above, the switches look to be spst momentary type.

Readily available here: http://www.radios...Id=3020763

The tricky part will be de-soldering the old one off the board.
Other than that, it's a simple fix. I've done it half a dozen times, with no failures.
Btw. my soldering skills are pitiful.

Good Luck

Russ


Were you replacing push button momentary switches on Hottop boards or other boards (non-hottop)?

Allen
1/2 lb and 1 lb drum, Siemens Sirocco fluidbed, presspot, chemex, cajun biggin brewer from the backwoods of Louisiana
 
Lylabrown
Top  #7 Print Post
Posted on 03/17/2012 8:56 PM
Hey allenb,

Sorry, I should have clarified. I've never worked on a hottop. I've replaced momentary switches, burnt capacitors, potentiometers, volume wheels, etc. on various devices / boards. Once the problem was traced to that particular component, the fixes were straightforward.

Which I should add as an addendum to my previous post on this thread. With the power cord unplugged, the momentary switch should be tested for continuity while engaged
(or disengaged). If it gives no reading, or an erratic one, it's safe to assume the switch is bad.

Hope this helps.

Russ
Edited by Lylabrown on 03/17/2012 8:57 PM
 
JackH
Top  #8 Print Post
Posted on 03/18/2012 3:43 AM
It is also possible that the HotTop uses sealed membrane switches like those used on microwave ovens. In that case, the assembly is usually replaced.
 
Lylabrown
Top  #9 Print Post
Posted on 03/18/2012 11:39 AM
Hey All,

I linked to the above image from this website: http://home.surew...r2005.html

Halfway down the page the reviewer stated that the board switches are thankfully the mechanical type. The model B is newer than that board. But retains a similar button layout. It's likely that the switches are still the same.

Russ
 
Gregr
Top  #10 Print Post
Posted on 10/29/2012 6:10 PM
Since this started happening on my machine too I'm wondering how this ended up for you (OP). Thanks!
 
ginny
Top  #11 Print Post
Posted on 10/29/2012 6:50 PM
this is not a new issue for any Hot Top model.

i have an elephant burial ground of Hot Top parts in my basement.

the response is always the same. send me 120/180 bucks and no issue.

the issue is if I HAVE NO experience with taking apart equipment then I am sunk in the water.

I must send may machine back and it can cost a ton-o-bucks to do that plus the cost of finding the problem and then to fix it...

I could toss the HT or any other and buy a new one for the price of sending it back and having it fixed.

this is not a Hot Top only problem but I believe across the board with roaster manufactures.

the home roasting community is still NEW. you, you folks reading this post are still the new kids on the block with HOME ROASTING YOUR OWN GREEN BEANS.

you are the testers of the "new" equipment. you rule and should NOT be put off by bad customer service.

frankly, regardless of how nice the manufacture is, he wants you to go away.

if he fixes your problem great, if he/she puts you off GO BACK AND YELL.

-g

rockon
 
Gregr
Top  #12 Print Post
Posted on 10/29/2012 10:25 PM
Thanks for the info.
This is my second roaster- first was a Behmor. Both companies have proven to be excellent in the customer service department as far my dealings have gone. I've dealt with Michael at Hottop a couple of times and he's always been prompt and helpful so no need to yell for me smile
Am I disappointed the buttons are going bad- yeah, for sure, but I will bite the bullet and plunk down the money for a new board.
 
smico
Top  #13 Print Post
Posted on 10/29/2012 11:20 PM
If I were you I would invest in TC4 and HTC rather than new board. With TC4 you can add LCD with buttons that have identical functionality as the board.
You can ask member JimG who makes all that possible.
Regards,
Miroslav
Hottop B2 + HTC, Cremina 83, OE Pharos, Brewtus IIIR, Baratza Vario
 
Randy G
Top  #14 Print Post
Posted on 10/30/2012 12:31 AM
I have never had a panel switch fail, fwiw.
I will second the TC4C + HTC solution. it makes the HT an amazing machine when plugged into a laptop!

Life's too short to drink bad coffee.
 
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ronsil
Top  #15 Print Post
Posted on 10/30/2012 6:11 AM

Quote

Randy G wrote:
I will second the TC4C + HTC solution. it makes the HT an amazing machine when plugged into a laptop!


Not been around here long but I positively GO with that statement
Ron
 
snwcmpr
Top  #16 Print Post
Posted on 10/30/2012 6:35 AM
No word from the original poster? ModemMisuser?

Ken in NC
--------------
Backwoods Roaster
"I wish I could taste as well as I wish I could roast."

As Abraham Lincoln said "Do not trust everything you read on the internet".
 
Gregr
Top  #17 Print Post
Posted on 10/30/2012 10:28 AM
Another mod?!!! Will it never end? lol- I got fin mods, I got thermocouples... Hopefully soon I'll have an oven hood. Ok- I will look into the TC4C and HTC solution. I am highly skeptical though as my technogeek skills are remedial at best, so you'll probably be hearing more from me.
 
snwcmpr
Top  #18 Print Post
Posted on 12/18/2012 11:28 AM

Quote

Ginny said:
you are the testers of the "new" equipment. you rule and should NOT be put off by bad customer service.


I got a replacement top filter. I emailed Michael. He said it is ok to have an inch gap of the filter in the top.
Here is a picture of a new top filter.

Ken in NC
snwcmpr attached the following image:
hottop-top-filter_002-optimized.jpg
--------------
Backwoods Roaster
"I wish I could taste as well as I wish I could roast."

As Abraham Lincoln said "Do not trust everything you read on the internet".
 
ciel-007
Top  #19 Print Post
Posted on 12/18/2012 12:42 PM

Quote

ginny wrote:

i have an elephant burial ground of Hot Top parts in my basement.



I have had my two HTs for just a few months; so far, I am impressed with the apparent sturdiness of the machines. However, I am eager to learn more about the long-term reliability of these units. Based on your years of roasting experiences with several HT units, would it be possible for you to post a list of the parts that you have had to replace over time? Thanks, Ciel
Ciel... seeking Heaven in my cup with ................................................................................................................. EXPOBAR Brewtus II - MAZZER Mini E - MAHLK?NIG Vario - GeneCafe - RAF-1 Extreme (Modified B-2 HOTTOP) - BellaTaiwan XJ-101
 
snwcmpr
Top  #20 Print Post
Posted on 12/18/2012 6:17 PM
I can get 1/8" thick graphite high temp sheet for about 57 USD.

http://www.amazon...PDKIKX0DER

That will make 18 replacement filters for the top filter.
That's 3.17 USD each plus the first class stamp.

Is anyone interested in that instead of 10 per top filter from HT?

Ken in NC
--------------
Backwoods Roaster
"I wish I could taste as well as I wish I could roast."

As Abraham Lincoln said "Do not trust everything you read on the internet".
 
turtle
Top  #21 Print Post
Posted on 10/06/2015 7:44 PM
I am gong to revive this thread as I have had the "sticky/wonky" button issue twice now.

This last time I posted a WTB for another controller rather than fix it again.

The "fix" is using GC tuner cleaner/lube and some GC spray alcohol.

Take the PCB off of the plastic cover.

spray the PCB with alcohol until it drips off. This will remove any bean oil and fine "dust" that has attached itself to the PCB from roasting.

Carefully spray the momentary contact switches with the tuner cleaner/lube trying not to get it on everything.

"Exercise" the buttons (push them again and again. When you think you have pushed them enough do it some more as you are working the cleaner/lube into the switch.

Take the spray alcohol and spray off the PCB to remove any excess lube.

LET the PCB dry over night.

Last time the "fix" lasted 2 years. I'll see how long it lasts this time.

the button switches are surface mounted so easy to de-solder and replace if "the fix" does not work for you
Mick - "Drinking in life one cup at a time"
"I'd rather be roasting coffee"

Roaster 1: San Franciscan SF-1
Roaster 2: Hottop B-2K+
Roaster 3: 2 kilo Chinese drum
Grinders: Mazzer Major - Forte BG (x3)
Pour over: Hario - Bee House - Chemex - Kalita - Bodum
Drip: Bunn CWTF15-1 & CW15-TC (commercials)
Espresso: Pasquini Livia 90 auto
Vacuum: Cona - Bodum
Press: Frieling - Bodum Colombia
 
KaSaBiS
Top  #22 Print Post
Posted on 08/10/2016 9:03 AM
Thread Resurrection. THANK YOU TURTLE! I let my PCB drip with 91% Isopropol, dry, and spray with electronics plastics lube, button mash, dry overnight, then immediately roasted 4 batches back to back. (Was on my last few beans).
Almost had to buy store bought (BOOOO)
 
Randy G
Top  #23 Print Post
Posted on 08/10/2016 10:58 AM
Use Deoxit-D. I got a can (#D5S-6) on eBay. I used it on the electrical contacts on various electronic connectors (computer and sensors) on my wife's car and it cleaned them up nicely, and no residue. Same for the connections on the main circuit board on the Hottop. You do not need lubricant for momentary switches such as those on the Hottop control panel- quite the opposite.

Life's too short to drink bad coffee.
 
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hankbates
Top  #24 Print Post
Posted on 09/24/2016 10:59 AM
Excellent advice, Randy
I am on nearly 2 years of added service life from my board, thanks to you and Deoxit.
 
Randy G
Top  #25 Print Post
Posted on 09/24/2016 11:35 AM
I just read the earlier posts (shame on me). I would not recommend using any sort of lube on switch contacts. The Deoxit-D does not leave residue but removes oxidation and dirt and oils, and does provide anti-oxidant protection.

Life's too short to drink bad coffee.
 
Web
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