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renatoa
02/08/2023 1:20 AM
coffee drink @ RC-Roaster

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02/07/2023 7:46 PM
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02/04/2023 1:40 PM
Welcome, ediblemanager

In Memory Of Ginny
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Modifying the Poppery 1
MassWineGuy
Is there anyone in the Massachusetts/New Hampshire area who can help me modify my Poppery? I've decoupled the heater from the fan so they operate separately. But I'm a total mechanical klutz otherwise.
 
MassWineGuy
Not exactly a mod, maybe, but how do you keep the Poppery tilted during a roast when the big plastic cover is nestled on top? It falls off when I do it.
 
JimH
The plastic top slows down airflow a bit and helps keep in the heat. If the goal is to increase airflow and lower temperature, lose the plastic top. As to the tilt, 15 degrees is a nice angle. I use a piece of wood, but maybe you could use one of Robert Parker's books, it will finally be good for something that way.
 
MassWineGuy

Quote

I use a piece of wood, but maybe you could use one of Robert Parker's books, it will finally be good for something that way.


I agree with you about 98 percent. Despite Parker's fostering of the numerical rating system for wines, he also conveys a tremendous amount of good background and other information about various wine regions, growerrs, etc.

What do you exactly do with the piece of wood to tilt the popper?
 
JimH
Just put it underneath one side. The side vents in the popper's roast chamber create a good circular motion, but you also need movement from top to bottom. The tilt causes the beans on the up-tilted side to rise up in the bean mass, creating a more even roast. In your case, it will also allow freer flow of air out of the roast chamber, lowering the temperature and extending the roast.
 
MassWineGuy
Thanks, Jim. I haven't yet enlarged or lengthened the size of the bean chamber. What's the best way to do this? If using a can, what do you do about the vertical ridged line of plastic in the Poppery's chamber?
 
snwcmpr
I used a Dremmel to cut a slot about 1/2" long to fit on the ridge.
That is detailed in the first page of this thread.
Ken in NC
--------------
Backwoods Roaster
"I wish I could taste as well as I wish I could roast."

As Abraham Lincoln said "Do not trust everything you read on the internet".
 
JimH
I dremelled most of mine off, leaving about 10%, and removed 100% at the very bottom. The bottom allows the rolled edge of a can to snap in underneath so the can won't fall out when you dump the beans. Of course, now that can is a few years old and rather rusty, but it's wedged in so tightly I'm afraid to try and move it. It was a temporary solution that somehow became permanent.
 
MassWineGuy
A Dremel. Oh yeah. Wish I had one. I'll figure something out.
 
snwcmpr
MassWineGuy, I don't mean to be rude, but, did you read page 1 of this thread?
Wire cutters, tin snips, etc.

Copied here:
I have a "nibbler" that removes a "slot" of sheet metal but this is not necessary. A pair of diagonal wire cutters, sheet metal shears or even a carefully manipulated hack saw blade can be used to make a cut in the tin can. Remember ? wear gloves ? the cut edges are sharp - dress up the edges with emery paper or something else to dull them down after the cut.

P1 1-5

www.homeroasters....%201-5.jpg


Ken in NC
--------------
Backwoods Roaster
"I wish I could taste as well as I wish I could roast."

As Abraham Lincoln said "Do not trust everything you read on the internet".
 
MassWineGuy
It's ok, Ken. Be a little rude. I read a lot of that article, but not all of it.
 
MassWineGuy
I tilted the Poppery and roasted two more batches of El Salvador. FIrst one, about 4 oz., first crack definitely took longer, about double. Second batch I used more beans and first crack was not as delayed. I stirred the beans for the first few minutes with both roasts and tried not to go beyond City/Full City. Maybe I'll brew some up tomorrow.
 
jlhuge
Anyone know what the ID/OD for a pyrex chamber replacement needs to be? I can't seem to find it, and don't have access to my roaster to measure it right now.

Also where do you generally go (those who have made that mod) to get it, ebay?
- Justin

West Bend Poppery I, strainer, shop-vac for cooling and chaff control.
 
jlhuge
Oh goody,
Found ginny's list of everything. That'll help sourcing the materials for modding a poppery (present for Father-in-law).

Hrm too bad it doesn't have dimensions.
BTW, am I missing it, or is there an actual list/document with the Poppery I's optional modification components?

Thanks for your help guys,
- Justin

West Bend Poppery I, strainer, shop-vac for cooling and chaff control.
 
shsesc
I didn't see any text about where to get the glass chimney and fan controller and booster. I read the whole OP, but I think I'm missing it. Also, what was the reason for cutting down the housing? Does that eliminate the bakelite roasting chamber?

Can anyone help me out?
 
Bob J

Quote

shsesc wrote:

I didn't see any text about where to get the glass chimney and fan controller and booster. I read the whole OP, but I think I'm missing it. Also, what was the reason for cutting down the housing? Does that eliminate the bakelite roasting chamber?

Can anyone help me out?


I got my fan controller off ebay and bought the step up transformer from a supply house that unfortunately is no longer in business.... My glass chimney is a pyrex "bake a round" that I found on ebay.... Be aware that you want the small one that comes in a pack of two.... Nice to have a second for a spare as they have become hard to find.... It fits directly in the cast aluminum base.... Hopefully this helps a little....
 
shsesc

Quote

Bob J wrote:



I got my fan controller off ebay and bought the step up transformer from a supply house that unfortunately is no longer in business.... My glass chimney is a pyrex "bake a round" that I found on ebay.... Be aware that you want the small one that comes in a pack of two.... Nice to have a second for a spare as they have become hard to find.... It fits directly in the cast aluminum base.... Hopefully this helps a little....


Thanks, that does help.

What specs must I look for in a fan controller and a step up transformer?
 
Bob J

Quote

What specs must I look for in a fan controller and a step up transformer?


Fan controller was a small thyristor circuit I got off ebay..... 2K watt IIRC... Originally got two so I could use the second one to control heat but it died on my first roast so now am using a harbor freight controller for that..... The step up transformer was rated 120V in and 140V out IIRC...
Edited by ginny on 08/05/2013 11:40 AM
 
snwcmpr
Is the glass chimney (Pyrex Bake-A-Round, set of 2) the ones that are 14 inches long?

Thanks,
Ken in NC
--------------
Backwoods Roaster
"I wish I could taste as well as I wish I could roast."

As Abraham Lincoln said "Do not trust everything you read on the internet".
 
Bob J

Quote

snwcmpr wrote:

Is the glass chimney (Pyrex Bake-A-Round, set of 2) the ones that are 14 inches long?

Thanks,
Ken in NC


That sounds right..... Just be sure to get the ones with the smaller diameter that comes 2 to a set and you should be fine....
 
valkuan
Hello, my P1 worked for good 6 mths and produced consistently good coffee until it didn't work, I.e. not heating up. So I opened up and disabled the thermostat by way of method 2 because I wouldn't get everything apart and modified the on off button as well. Still not working, fan is on just not heating up. Can someone tell me if the P1 should RIP or there is an easy fix? if i should get a replacement, I research French roast has mixed review, I don't know which roaster to replace my P1 .... 3 weeks without home roast coffee! Please recommend. Thanks, Valerie
 
Lawnmowerman
Ive never had a p1. Can you measure it for ohms? The heater? If it needs replacement I highly recommend the breadmaker heatgun combo.
Bad coffee prevails when good coffee roasters stand by and do nothing.
 
Bob J

Quote

Lawnmowerman wrote:

Ive never had a p1. Can you measure it for ohms? The heater? If it needs replacement I highly recommend the breadmaker heatgun combo.


Agree with this..... Sounds like the heater burned out..... If you can find the open you might be able to jumper it with a heavy gage bare copper wire....
 
JackH
Another thing I see with dead poppers and grinders is a blown thermal fuse. Usually mounted on the grinder's motor for fire protection. For Poppers, it is usually mounted on the heater "plate". I have replaced several on dead iRoast machines and griders in the past. I think poppers have them too. You need to look up the part number printed on the fuse to get the correct type and rating. They are usually soldered or crimped in place and not easy to replace.

Might not be worth it although the Poppery I is a nice unit and hard to find now. There may also be a another reason it failed. with grinders it is usually a jam.

With my poppery II roaster, I usually cut heater power and run with full fan for a while, cooling it off. I think suddenly shutting off the popper while hot can cause problems and result in heater failure. I do this with my heat guns and have no problems.

Jack
Edited by JackH on 08/05/2013 8:46 AM
---Jack

KKTO Roaster.
 
valkuan
Thanks to Lawnmowerman, Bob J and JackH for your suggestion and ideas. I am not very technical neither is my husband. I think it is time for a new roaster. Do you guys know if anyone build the bread and heat gun combo for sale? Thanks again!
 
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