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P1 Group Build?
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walt_in_hawaii |
Posted on 10/10/2016 7:44 PM
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1/4 Pounder Posts: 133 Joined: August 24, 2016 |
*SIGH* I've sort of resigned myself to just building another roaster at this point. The only thing that will be salvageable from this project are the pyrex bake a round tubes... to be used just above the new roast chamber so I can easily see what the beans are doing. I guess I can also use the aluminum adapter plate upside down as a top 'hat' on top of the pyrex tube... have to make a new bottom, though, so the pyrex can be joined to the yet-to-be-designed-and-made roast chamber (probably stainless?). P1 will still be around as my backup roaster, though, in case something happens to the primary, but the sample size will be limited to 150g-175g ish. I'll just use them with the menard's hurricane lantern glass and see if the 'belly' in the glass helps to toss around more beans. |
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walt_in_hawaii |
Posted on 10/14/2016 5:31 PM
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1/4 Pounder Posts: 133 Joined: August 24, 2016 |
my 3" turbo intercooler coupling hose has arrived, I nearly lost a couple fingers trying to use a large knife to cut it into 3x 1" sections as the 3" section was way too long. Silicon can be cut with a knife, but it ain't fun and my knife is SHARP. test roast of a couple batches of around 175g-200g turned out so-so with the lantern glass. I had to use more tilt than before, nearly 20 degrees? to get the beans circulating and they aren't going around and around so much as over-under near the top of the tilted portion. P1 does a credible job... but a bit small on the batch size. Will have to make another roaster. |
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Airhan |
Posted on 10/23/2016 11:44 AM
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1/2 Pounder Posts: 228 Joined: September 29, 2013 |
Quote walt_in_hawaii wrote: P1 now has the adapter plate mounted securely. Now I put the pyrex tube into the adapter; I have to find some insulating material to soften the contact between the plate and the glass so it doesn't crack. Also, the hose clamps I ordered are the WRONG size: I wouldn't worry about the pyrex cracking, in my poppery 1 I have a tube held in place with nothing but a pipe clamp. borosilicate glass undergoes such little thermal expansion that so long as your clamp isn't way too tight, you shouldn't have any problems. For your reference: http://forum.home...post_54374 Aaron
"Grind it like it did you some great injustice!"D.L.Clark |
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walt_in_hawaii |
Posted on 10/28/2016 4:35 PM
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1/4 Pounder Posts: 133 Joined: August 24, 2016 |
Sorry, have to post a pic when I get home, but I've been using the silicone intercooler sleeve with the Menard's hurricane glass and getting reasonable results with my old P1. I'm roasting 150g consistently, and I think I can go to 175g, given the amount of agitation I'm getting, but I'm still experimenting. I have been using the normal 'router speed control' in the black plastic case which is sold by several different vendors on amazon, I got mine for around $18. It worked fine with the P2, but with the P1 (which uses around 250 more watts) it started to 'time out'.... it would click off in the middle of a roast. I'm running into a thermal barrier of some sort, I think it is rated at 15A. It would take 3-4 minutes to cool down and reset, and gets very hot to the touch. I ordered the 'heavy duty' router speed control for around $35 or a tad more, and have been experimenting; its takes getting used to, this one doesn't go from 0-100%, it only goes from 0-60% roughly so its hard to get it into 1C, I have to flip it to 'full' and do away with the knob... so early part of roast its incremental knob adjustment, then from about 3 minutes I just flip it to 'full' and have to use the fan control to stall the heater a little and come up gradually. My stainless rods have come in, so I'll start to put together the chamber assembly for the new roaster which will have a little more capacity than the P1. |
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