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renatoa
08/10/2022 1:56 AM
nguyencoffeesupply
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08/03/2022 2:09 AM
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 TC4+ Arduino coffee roaster shield (TC4-compatible)
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| harryf |
Posted on 07/27/2020 3:05 PM
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 Newbie  Posts: 27 Joined: July 13, 2020 |
Hi mg512, yes the fan and heater still work, just the temp readings are nonsense. With the bench psu wired to the DC in it works fine. I even switched on the fan psu at the same time, with the dc not connected in case it was causing some interference, and all was fine. |
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| harryf |
Posted on 07/27/2020 4:17 PM
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Newbie Posts: 27 Joined: July 13, 2020 |
Quote No, but I will try that tomorrow |
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| harryf |
Posted on 07/28/2020 7:25 AM
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Newbie Posts: 27 Joined: July 13, 2020 |
Tried shorting the unused inputs, no difference. I connected the V in gnd to earth and bingo! Temperature readings are now good. I remember reading that one in a post. Just need to figure out why the heater slider does not move when using the heater buttons, but the fan slider moves with the fan buttons. However, the heater slider does control the heater OK. |
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| mg512 |
Posted on 07/28/2020 9:40 AM
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 1/4 Pounder  Posts: 189 Joined: March 04, 2018 |
Ah, are you connecting to your computer via USB, and is that computer connected to mains as well? Generally I would avoid that - either use a laptop that's on battery, or use Bluetooth altogether, when using the DC IN header. |
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| harryf |
Posted on 07/28/2020 1:22 PM
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Newbie Posts: 27 Joined: July 13, 2020 |
Quote mg512 wrote: Ah, are you connecting to your computer via USB, and is that computer connected to mains as well? Generally I would avoid that - either use a laptop that's on battery, or use Bluetooth altogether, when using the DC IN header. I am connecting via USB to a desktop PC that I built for this purpose, so the battery option is a non starter. However, it all seems stable now, so I'm happy. Should the heater slider follow the buttons? |
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| renatoa |
Posted on 07/28/2020 3:13 PM
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Administrator  Posts: 2212 Joined: September 30, 2016 |
Yes, it should. But this is an Artisan issue, not TC4. You can experience some strange behaviours with sliders... like jumping to values multiple of 4 only, for the air slider, while the heater works fine... so no wonder another one. |
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| harryf |
Posted on 07/28/2020 4:05 PM
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Newbie Posts: 27 Joined: July 13, 2020 |
Oh well, thanks anyway |
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| sky0sea |
Posted on 07/28/2020 10:41 PM
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Newbie Posts: 1 Joined: July 28, 2020 |
Hello. I am trying to make popper with TC4 + Arduino coffee roaster shield. Preparation: TC4+, Arduino Uno or Arduino Mega, PSU 24V 5A, Thermocouple (ring type, rod type), SSR 40A for heater, I2C LCD, etc. Arduino Uno's TC4+ temperature is output as serial Baudrate 115200. I uploaded the Artisan PID. Output is connected to the Artisan PC program. I want to use Arduino Mega. TC4 + temperature of Arduino mega2560 is output as serial Baudrate 115200. I uploaded the Artisan PID. I2C was wired. It doesn't seem to connect to the Artisan PC program. Is there anything I should consider to solve the problem? |
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| mg512 |
Posted on 07/29/2020 7:05 AM
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1/4 Pounder Posts: 189 Joined: March 04, 2018 |
Quote sky0sea wrote: Hello. I am trying to make popper with TC4 + Arduino coffee roaster shield. Preparation: TC4+, Arduino Uno or Arduino Mega, PSU 24V 5A, Thermocouple (ring type, rod type), SSR 40A for heater, I2C LCD, etc. Arduino Uno's TC4+ temperature is output as serial Baudrate 115200. I uploaded the Artisan PID. Output is connected to the Artisan PC program. I want to use Arduino Mega. TC4 + temperature of Arduino mega2560 is output as serial Baudrate 115200. I uploaded the Artisan PID. I2C was wired. It doesn't seem to connect to the Artisan PC program. Is there anything I should consider to solve the problem? The Mega is not supported. Even if the TC4+ worked on a hardware level (which I haven't looked into and am not sure about), I don't think aArtisan / aArtisanQ_PID are compatible with the MEGA, as they make use of some low-level features of the UNO's microcontroller. |
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| hstan4 |
Posted on 08/29/2020 11:16 AM
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Newbie Posts: 21 Joined: July 16, 2020 |
Quote renatoa wrote: Attached you can see the heater plate of the popper I am actually modding... just for the record. The bimetal on the right has the same function and connection as the thermostat in hstan4 model. The fiberglass cloth white tube on the left is an insulation for the thermal fuse we can see naked in the pictures above. By far I prefer hstan4 model, there is non need to dismount heater plate in order to bypass the bimetal, and the thermostat leads can be used for SSR connections with less much tinkering. ... How would the thermostat leads be used for SSR connections? After PMing another user, I?ve removed the brown/red and black wires from my thermostat and planned on routing the brown/red directly to the SSR, with the thermal fuse being used as the safety mechanism. I guess looking now it seems I could have left these on and used the black wire from the thermostat to connect to the SSR? |
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| renatoa |
Posted on 08/29/2020 12:57 PM
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Administrator Posts: 2212 Joined: September 30, 2016 |
Those wires already have crimped the female connectors for thermostat, so you can connect SSR directly to wires having matching male connector crimped, that can be bought as is, or manufactured on demand in electrical shops. For some people who don't own a soldering tool this is a plus. If you don't already have some tools in your home, great ! but if no... and start adding them to the bill... the tools required to modify a popper could cost more than the hardware of the roaster... Did you started a separate thread about this build ? Because these details are no more related to TC4+, imo... |
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| hstan4 |
Posted on 09/03/2020 9:23 PM
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Newbie Posts: 21 Joined: July 16, 2020 |
I have not started a thread separately but am considering it. I did end up buying all soldering tools and everything else and am making progress on my build. I?m using 22awg wire and am wondering if it?s the appropriate size but otherwise am moving forward ok |
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| renatoa |
Posted on 09/04/2020 2:43 AM
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Administrator Posts: 2212 Joined: September 30, 2016 |
22AWG is 7 Amps rated for chassis wiring cases, i.e. open air and short distances, opposite to buried into walls and long distances, where ampacity is much lower. For 110V US mains a popper heater draws about 12.5 Amps, so 22AWG will overheat. Measured factory wires in my popper and they are 16AWG, rated at 22 Amps. If no other wires available atm, and enough 22AWG stock, I would double the 22AWG you have. Edited by renatoa on 09/04/2020 12:27 PM |
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| hstan4 |
Posted on 09/04/2020 10:38 AM
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Newbie Posts: 21 Joined: July 16, 2020 |
Got it. I've gotten some incredible help from Harryf, but am still having some final issues on which wiring to use for everything. Harryf suggested 18AWG which seems like it would also suffice, but would I also use 16/18AWG for the fan wiring to the (in my case) TC4+ or would it need to be smaller? I believe all of the connectors I have fit from 22-16AWG, so it seems to me picking the 16 would make the most sense as it handles the highest amperage and shouldn't affect how it connects to the terminals. |
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| mg512 |
Posted on 09/04/2020 11:24 AM
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1/4 Pounder Posts: 189 Joined: March 04, 2018 |
Quote hstan4 wrote: Got it. I've gotten some incredible help from Harryf, but am still having some final issues on which wiring to use for everything. Harryf suggested 18AWG which seems like it would also suffice, but would I also use 16/18AWG for the fan wiring to the (in my case) TC4+ or would it need to be smaller? I believe all of the connectors I have fit from 22-16AWG, so it seems to me picking the 16 would make the most sense as it handles the highest amperage and shouldn't affect how it connects to the terminals. Personally I would err on the side of thicker wiring than necessary. It doesn't cost much and can save you a lot of trouble. One tip: Use differently coloured wiring for AC and DC! I.e. blue-brown-green/yellow for AC and black-red for DC. It may be tempting to just get one or two colours of wiring if you're going to use the same gauge for all of it, but you really don't want to accidentally mix up the wires later. |
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| hstan4 |
Posted on 09/04/2020 4:22 PM
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Newbie Posts: 21 Joined: July 16, 2020 |
Ok I've got 6 colors in the one I'm looking at and currently have for 22AWG. The same brand has an 18 option, would that suffice over 16? |
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| renatoa |
Posted on 09/05/2020 4:10 AM
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Administrator Posts: 2212 Joined: September 30, 2016 |
Yep, it is rated for some... 18 Amps, this is how I remember this wire, is the only whose AWG number approximates very close the ampacity  I am using it almost exclusively in my multicopters, for currents in the 15-20 Amps range. |
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| a1970gto |
Posted on 09/29/2020 1:09 PM
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Newbie Posts: 34 Joined: October 31, 2018 |
Do you have, or know where I can find a 3d model of a TC4? I'm finally getting my 3d printer and want to print a box for all of the electronics. Thanks, |
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| renatoa |
Posted on 09/29/2020 2:15 PM
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Administrator Posts: 2212 Joined: September 30, 2016 |
You can start from Arduino Uno board model... https://grabcad.c...o-uno-r3-1 ... and place a second board on top... Or modify an existing case for a shielded Uno: https://pinshape....tbeam-case |
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| Coffeeed |
Posted on 10/01/2020 4:33 PM
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Newbie Posts: 25 Joined: August 03, 2020 |
Quote renatoa wrote: Attached you can see the heater plate of the popper I am actually modding... just for the record. The bimetal on the right has the same function and connection as the thermostat in hstan4 model. The fiberglass cloth white tube on the left is an insulation for the thermal fuse we can see naked in the pictures above. By far I prefer hstan4 model, there is non need to dismount heater plate in order to bypass the bimetal, and the thermostat leads can be used for SSR connections with less much tinkering. ... I am wondering if you are someone can advise me on disabling the thermostat or thermal cutoff (whatever it is that causes the popper to turn off when it gets too hot but allows you to use it again when it has cooled down again) on a DASH popper which is different from the ones that I have dealt with in the past. See https://homeroast...post_72402 Edited by Coffeeed on 10/01/2020 6:12 PM |
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| czeffy66 |
Posted on 03/15/2021 2:51 AM
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Newbie Posts: 7 Joined: March 01, 2021 |
I am a bit hesitant on where to connect the PWM 2A AC Light Dimmer Module into TC4+. The seller of the PWM module suggest one of the PWM output of the arduiono. If using this what code modification I would need for Artisan? Can I still use the DC+ and DC- outputs? As I understand that this is for self powerring of the DC FAN by attaching the DC power supply to VIN and GND. The PWM module is power from the arduino 5V instead. Would it work in a way that I do not attache any DC power supply, but use still the DC+ connected PWM and the DC- to GND of the PWM module? Thanks. |
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| renatoa |
Posted on 03/15/2021 3:59 AM
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Administrator Posts: 2212 Joined: September 30, 2016 |
Assuming you're talking about the RobotDyn module dimmer... You want the dimmer module to drive what ? Anyway, no modification needed for Artisan to use this board. The PWM module don't need any power, the Vcc pin can be left unconnected for TC4, it is provided for other Arduino projects. The typical usage of this board is: - Gnd pin to Ground of Arduino. - ZCD pin to the Arduino gpio pin used for ZC detection - PWM pin to the Arduino gpio pin used for OT1 or OT2, depends what is your intended usage. Don't use tc4 OT1/OT2 outputs, those are for driving a SSR ! DC+/- are dedicated outputs for the fan, don't try using them for this module board !!! First, answer us the introductory question, what is the purpose you want for module ? Edited by renatoa on 03/16/2021 2:16 AM |
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| mg512 |
Posted on 03/15/2021 9:19 PM
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1/4 Pounder Posts: 189 Joined: March 04, 2018 |
Assuming you're talking about the module from Tindie that only takes a PWM signal as input (and doesn't have a ZCD output), you would usually connect that to the IO3 header. That would then replace the DC OUT screw terminal. You could still use the DC OUT header, but it would always be at the same power level as the IO3 header, you can't control them separately. (If you do want the PWM AC dimmer board, and the DC OUT header, both separately controllable, you could use another PWM pin on the Arduino.) If you just connect the PWM AC Dimmer board to the IO3 header, and have the Arduino connected via USB, you don't need a DC power supply. But DC OUT won't work then, of course. |
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| czeffy66 |
Posted on 03/16/2021 3:16 AM
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Newbie Posts: 7 Joined: March 01, 2021 |
I am sorry I wasn't detailed enough, but I didn't want to bother you with a lot of details. A few years back I bought a https://www.mechatronics.com/products/ac-motorized-impellers/UF250APA/ impeller for building a coffee roast cooler, but I never made it. I thought I could use it as a both blower (lower speed, connected to the roaster column) and cooler (higher speed, using the suction side) in a arduino controlled fluid roaster. I bought https://www.tindie.com/products/bugrovs2012/pwm-ac-light-dimmer-module-50hz-60hz/ suggested in https://www.instructables.com/Arduino-controlled-DIY-Coffee-Roaster/. Looking back again, I noticed that there was an explanation to connect to IO3 in this, that I overlooked earlier. It is really nice on TCP4+ board that the IO3 is a 3 PIN connection (IO3, GND, 5V), so all the connection needed is in one place for the PWM board (VCC, PWM, GND). The order of the PINs needs to be changed though. Thanks for your explanation. |
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| renatoa |
Posted on 03/16/2021 3:24 AM
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Administrator Posts: 2212 Joined: September 30, 2016 |
This motor is an induction type, thus neither of TC4 control methods is appropriate to control its speed. You need a variable frequency converter. Known also as VFD (Variable Frequency Drive) Edited by renatoa on 03/16/2021 3:31 AM |
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