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Transparent Fluid Bed Design
CK
Top  #121 Print Post
Posted on 09/21/2020 12:23 PM
When reconfiguring the build a defect was found on the heater lid part. It still functions well to hold the RC... a high temperature PLA reprint may be made for a fix.
CK attached the following image:
pla_heat_defect.jpg
 
floptronica
Top  #122 Print Post
Posted on 10/07/2020 6:41 AM
That's a very nice rig you made. I had no idea about the high temp PLA and the gizmo to hear 1st crack better is a new idea to me. So much nicer than holding my ear next to the roast chamber.

One Idea i might contribute to your build is to roll your own heating elements. The ones that come with poppers are made with the cheapest possible material, and just don't last too long. Ive been using nichrome 80 in 20 gauge, and an element lasts over a year. Use a knitting needle to roll it. Just get one in the mm diameter of your old coil.
 
CK
Top  #123 Print Post
Posted on 10/08/2020 1:47 PM
Thanks for the tips on rolling custom coils and wire choice. That may come in handy in the future if there is need to do repairs.

The original coils are still going strong with more than 2 years roasting and testing on them... perhaps because I don't run them maxed out. (They only run at about 50-60% of their potential.)

I've simplified the FC sound feature by removing the copper piping, and putting foil directly over the 1" top opening. It's clamped in place with a band clamp over a silicone gasket, keeping the foil relatively flat and stretched tight. The function works just as well as the complicated copper pipe design.
 
TooL
Top  #124 Print Post
Posted on 02/07/2021 6:28 AM
Hey there, I've been having a peruse through this thread cause this is a really neat design. Have I missed a part list or have you not released one? Just curious as I'm thinking of making a roaster myself and I am curious about how much this kind of setup would cost smile
One thing I'm interested in is how it's all powered, do you have a big psu of some sort or is everything just individually plugged into an extension bar or something?
Cheers either way as it's been cool to see the idea and progression
 
CK
Top  #125 Print Post
Posted on 02/07/2021 11:26 PM
You can refer to posts 21, 23, 42, and 44 for the information. Each 120v power inlet is pulled from a different circuit in the home.
 
TooL
Top  #126 Print Post
Posted on 02/12/2021 2:14 PM
Oh awesome I feel a bit silly. So you power it with a bunch of plugs, makes a lot of sense haha. Cheers, totally should have seen that
 
iPa
Top  #127 Print Post
Posted on 01/20/2022 4:54 AM

Quote

CK wrote:

Here's a screenshot of a recent ET PID roast from a couple of weeks ago. The PID follows the profile easily and consistently now.

Using the Artisan profile designer, a person can adjust for total time, end temperature desired, and thus affect phase percentages as well. Simply save the generic profile as a template to be used for any bean type you like with that curve and flavor.


What is the advantage of ET PID vs BT PID ?
I think I am missing something, ET is following the background curve, so how is it possible to define(predict) BT temperature ?
 
renatoa
Top  #128 Print Post
Posted on 01/20/2022 6:16 AM
Thermodynamic laws:
https://homeroast...post_73960

Getting a reliable BT is a lottery in some machines.
In such cases has more sense to drive the roast based on ET, and some knowledge.
There are $$$$ FB roasting machines not even featuring a BT sensor, and used by pros for sampling.
 
CK
Top  #129 Print Post
Posted on 01/20/2022 11:26 AM

Quote

iPa wrote:

What is the advantage of ET PID vs BT PID ?
I think I am missing something, ET is following the background curve, so how is it possible to define(predict) BT temperature ?


ET PID is very easy to achieve. When you have the proper PID settings for your machine, the resulting heat profile is always smooth and consistent. The BT will naturally follow a smooth profile based on the thermal characteristics of your machine... there is no radically fluctuating BT during the roast. (This can also be achieved with a heater power profile, no PID involved, just smooth power increases to create the desired time and temperature curve you want as Renato often says. You see an example of power curve roast control in post#1 and #9 here https://homeroast...post_74801)

The key is practice, practice, practice to learn how your machine transfers heat to the beans... this will vary depending on charge weight, so it's easier to learn using a constant charge weight.
 
renatoa
Top  #130 Print Post
Posted on 01/20/2022 1:39 PM
An alternate approach is to use power profiles instead temperature profiles, for machines where the relation power ~ heat is mostly linear.
Thus no more need for PID settings/tuning.
It's a simple mod for TC4, but unfortunately Artisan lacks support for power profiles.
 
rk27
Top  #131 Print Post
Posted on 07/07/2022 1:58 PM

Quote

CK wrote:

Quote

Does the RC cover, taken from a second cyclone, requires a cut job, or you succeeded to dismount the cyclone in the two component parts ?
.

The aluminum cyclone is one piece and needed cutting. Here's an image of the underside of the RC and CC lid with the solution that worked in this setup.


Hey CK, once again great build, thanks a lot for sharing all the information. Following your posts I also made a roaster out from Ikea carafe.
Just a quick question, how does the holes in the cyclone actually prevent beans from escaping the RC through the main exhaust hole?
 
CK
Top  #132 Print Post
Posted on 07/09/2022 4:55 PM
I'm not sure I understand the question, but here is an image to explain. Please see post #28 for airflow mapping.

(images not loading... sorry)
 
CK
Top  #133 Print Post
Posted on 07/10/2022 10:02 PM

Quote

CK wrote:

I'm not sure I understand the question, but here is an image to explain. Please see post #28 for airflow mapping.

(images not loading... sorry)
CK attached the following image:
cyclone_details.jpg
 
rk27
Top  #134 Print Post
Posted on 07/12/2022 9:33 AM

Quote

CK wrote:

Quote

CK wrote:

I'm not sure I understand the question, but here is an image to explain. Please see post #28 for airflow mapping.

(images not loading... sorry)


Thanks for the image CK. I meant the port that exits the roasting chamber and goes to the chaff collector.
I see now from your image that beans never get that high.
Just wondering is there any reason you cut these semi-circular holes in the lid on top of the roasting chamber.
Attached the images to better describe what I mean.
rk27 attached the following images:
screenshot_2022-07-12_173221.png screenshot_s2022-07-12_172247.jpg
Edited by rk27 on 07/12/2022 9:47 AM
 
CK
Top  #135 Print Post
Posted on 07/13/2022 3:11 PM

Quote


Just wondering is there any reason you cut these semi-circular holes in the lid on top of the roasting chamber.
Attached the images to better describe what I mean.


Those semi-circular holes are from when I drilled the cyclone originally... no function anymore. Originally I had tried to vent the chaff by drilling many 10mm holes all around the cyclone body as seen in the upper image with the red description. That prototype failed, so I just cut the whole cyclone off instead... Everything worked fine after that.
 
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