Who is here? 1 guest(s)
 Print Thread
Transparent Fluid Bed Design
TooL
Oh awesome I feel a bit silly. So you power it with a bunch of plugs, makes a lot of sense haha. Cheers, totally should have seen that
 
iPa

Quote

CK wrote:

Here's a screenshot of a recent ET PID roast from a couple of weeks ago. The PID follows the profile easily and consistently now.

Using the Artisan profile designer, a person can adjust for total time, end temperature desired, and thus affect phase percentages as well. Simply save the generic profile as a template to be used for any bean type you like with that curve and flavor.


What is the advantage of ET PID vs BT PID ?
I think I am missing something, ET is following the background curve, so how is it possible to define(predict) BT temperature ?
 
renatoa
Thermodynamic laws:
https://homeroast...post_73960

Getting a reliable BT is a lottery in some machines.
In such cases has more sense to drive the roast based on ET, and some knowledge.
There are $$$$ FB roasting machines not even featuring a BT sensor, and used by pros for sampling.
 
CK

Quote

iPa wrote:

What is the advantage of ET PID vs BT PID ?
I think I am missing something, ET is following the background curve, so how is it possible to define(predict) BT temperature ?


ET PID is very easy to achieve. When you have the proper PID settings for your machine, the resulting heat profile is always smooth and consistent. The BT will naturally follow a smooth profile based on the thermal characteristics of your machine... there is no radically fluctuating BT during the roast. (This can also be achieved with a heater power profile, no PID involved, just smooth power increases to create the desired time and temperature curve you want as Renato often says. You see an example of power curve roast control in post#1 and #9 here https://homeroast...post_74801)

The key is practice, practice, practice to learn how your machine transfers heat to the beans... this will vary depending on charge weight, so it's easier to learn using a constant charge weight.
 
renatoa
An alternate approach is to use power profiles instead temperature profiles, for machines where the relation power ~ heat is mostly linear.
Thus no more need for PID settings/tuning.
It's a simple mod for TC4, but unfortunately Artisan lacks support for power profiles.
 
rk27

Quote

CK wrote:

Quote

Does the RC cover, taken from a second cyclone, requires a cut job, or you succeeded to dismount the cyclone in the two component parts ?
.

The aluminum cyclone is one piece and needed cutting. Here's an image of the underside of the RC and CC lid with the solution that worked in this setup.


Hey CK, once again great build, thanks a lot for sharing all the information. Following your posts I also made a roaster out from Ikea carafe.
Just a quick question, how does the holes in the cyclone actually prevent beans from escaping the RC through the main exhaust hole?
 
CK
I'm not sure I understand the question, but here is an image to explain. Please see post #28 for airflow mapping.

(images not loading... sorry)
 
CK

Quote

CK wrote:

I'm not sure I understand the question, but here is an image to explain. Please see post #28 for airflow mapping.

(images not loading... sorry)
CK attached the following image:
cyclone_details.jpg
 
rk27

Quote

CK wrote:

Quote

CK wrote:

I'm not sure I understand the question, but here is an image to explain. Please see post #28 for airflow mapping.

(images not loading... sorry)


Thanks for the image CK. I meant the port that exits the roasting chamber and goes to the chaff collector.
I see now from your image that beans never get that high.
Just wondering is there any reason you cut these semi-circular holes in the lid on top of the roasting chamber.
Attached the images to better describe what I mean.
rk27 attached the following images:
screenshot_2022-07-12_173221.png screenshot_s2022-07-12_172247.jpg

Edited by rk27 on 07/12/2022 9:47 AM
 
CK

Quote


Just wondering is there any reason you cut these semi-circular holes in the lid on top of the roasting chamber.
Attached the images to better describe what I mean.


Those semi-circular holes are from when I drilled the cyclone originally... no function anymore. Originally I had tried to vent the chaff by drilling many 10mm holes all around the cyclone body as seen in the upper image with the red description. That prototype failed, so I just cut the whole cyclone off instead... Everything worked fine after that.
 
Jump to Forum: