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 Fluid Bed Roaster Build - bye bye Heat Gun and Flour Sifter
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| jbrux4 |
Posted on 11/06/2019 10:04 AM
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 1/4 Pounder  Posts: 139 Location: Fairfax, VA Joined: October 26, 2019 |
Quote renatoa wrote: Rewiring the two 110V elements from paralel to series, and connecting them to 220V will not draw more current, conversely... you can use a lower current SSR. Thank you. Noted and put in my pocket. R/
Jared |
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| renatoa |
Posted on 11/06/2019 11:58 AM
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 Administrator  Posts: 1675 Location: Joined: September 30, 2016 |
Got it, there is good, was thinking you mean exhaust air. The perfect place requirements are: least airflow possible, and slowest bean movement, for the longest contact possible. Also, probe shape is critical. I would consider such sticker model for this purpose: https://perfectpr...cts/tl0225 Sorry for confusing you more than helping. |
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| jbrux4 |
Posted on 11/06/2019 3:05 PM
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1/4 Pounder Posts: 139 Location: Fairfax, VA Joined: October 26, 2019 |
Quote renatoa wrote: Got it, there is good, was thinking you mean exhaust air. The perfect place requirements are: least airflow possible, and slowest bean movement, for the longest contact possible. Also, probe shape is critical. I would consider such sticker model for this purpose: https://perfectpr...cts/tl0225 Sorry for confusing you more than helping. Wow. Didnt even know this existed. Operating temp is up to 392F. How did you overcome that limitation? R/
Jared |
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| renatoa |
Posted on 11/07/2019 1:21 AM
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Administrator Posts: 1675 Location: Joined: September 30, 2016 |
I would check elsewhere for versions using a better kapton tape. According to manufacturer (DuPont) it could range up to +400 °C / 752 °F |
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| jbrux4 |
Posted on 11/07/2019 8:56 AM
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1/4 Pounder Posts: 139 Location: Fairfax, VA Joined: October 26, 2019 |
THRU-FLOW Blower Question: Well, I feel like a dummy. I have the thru-flow blower in-hand now, but I am not getting how to get this thing installed. Is there a housing that goes over the motor that has a blower outlet that I could then attache a pipe to? I think I now understand why people go with the Tangential Bypass - because it already has a blower outlet. R/
Jared |
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| greencardigan |
Posted on 11/07/2019 4:31 PM
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 1 1/2 Pounder  Posts: 1134 Location: Australia Joined: November 21, 2010 |
Yes it will eed to be placed in some sort of housing or tube. I used PVC tube that was almost a perfect fit for my motor. |
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| jbrux4 |
Posted on 11/07/2019 6:10 PM
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1/4 Pounder Posts: 139 Location: Fairfax, VA Joined: October 26, 2019 |
Quote greencardigan wrote: Yes it will eed to be placed in some sort of housing or tube. I used PVC tube that was almost a perfect fit for my motor. As much as I have looked, I cant find a good example- less 3d printed custom stuff. I am still laughing at myself. "Oh, it's gonna be easier one I see it and have it in-hand." I was wrong. I dont want to give up the design principle of heated air though, so I must find a way. R/
Jared |
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| greencardigan |
Posted on 11/07/2019 6:36 PM
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1 1/2 Pounder Posts: 1134 Location: Australia Joined: November 21, 2010 |
Here's some pics from my single element roaster build. It has the motor in a PVC tube with th PVC reducer on top where the element connects to.
greencardigan attached the following images:
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| jbrux4 |
Posted on 11/07/2019 11:42 PM
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1/4 Pounder Posts: 139 Location: Fairfax, VA Joined: October 26, 2019 |
Quote greencardigan wrote: Here's some pics from my single element roaster build. It has the motor in a PVC tube with th PVC reducer on top where the element connects to. Thanks. Disappointment has faded and the idea juices are flowing now. R/
Jared |
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| jbrux4 |
Posted on 11/11/2019 4:24 PM
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1/4 Pounder Posts: 139 Location: Fairfax, VA Joined: October 26, 2019 |
Questions Regarding HONEYCOMB AIRFLOW STRAIGHTENER: For those who have the know-how with the honeycomb airflow straightener:
My use case is the following:
Edited by jbrux4 on 11/11/2019 9:43 PM R/
Jared |
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| jbrux4 |
Posted on 11/11/2019 7:39 PM
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1/4 Pounder Posts: 139 Location: Fairfax, VA Joined: October 26, 2019 |
Build Episode 1: SSR and Heatsink Assembly *also attached in the .7z file Disclaimer: This is how I did it. You don’t have to do it this way. If I have done something detrimental to the safety of myself or others, please let me know. Discussion: I will be utilizing 3 different 110V circuits for the elements and blower, and I will have my two heating elements wired in parallel. It is better to have SSRs with heat sinks to prevent overheating and to achieve specifications as stated by the manufacturer. Goal(s):
Materials & Tools:
Process:
Links to things:
jbrux4 attached the following file:
jbrux4 attached the following images:
Edited by jbrux4 on 11/11/2019 9:46 PM R/
Jared |
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| jbrux4 |
Posted on 11/13/2019 2:20 PM
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1/4 Pounder Posts: 139 Location: Fairfax, VA Joined: October 26, 2019 |
Quote jbrux4 wrote: Questions Regarding HONEYCOMB AIRFLOW STRAIGHTENER: For those who have the know-how with the honeycomb airflow straightener:
From what I have gathered from a NASA paper on an MAF straightener, it is best to have the strightener as far down the tunnel/tube as possible prior to its purposeful use. My own intuition tells me that the turbulence of the air while passing the heating elements is good because this means it gets heated for longer. Whether there is a measurable impact - don't know, but the diagrams and drawings I reviewed suggest it. As for the replacement of a perf plate or screen, I don't quite know yet because I don't know the sizes of the openings of the honeycomb, but I suspect those openings are too large and a perf plate or mesh scree is necessary. I am pretty sure I can use a few different tools to snip away at the honeycomb or even power cut - depends on the rigidity of the stuff - it is aluminum. I also read in the NASA paper that damage to the honeycomb has significant ramifications in terms of performance, so I want to handle it carefully. R/
Jared |
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| jbrux4 |
Posted on 11/13/2019 2:31 PM
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1/4 Pounder Posts: 139 Location: Fairfax, VA Joined: October 26, 2019 |
I am still waiting on some pieces and parts. I did get notification of a package from the Australian Post, so I should have the TC4 and ZCD. I learned how to crimp those DuPont connectors last night, but I am still waiting on the housings. I need to practice with the soldering iron - it's been 8 years since I did any soldering for my home brew and wood working stuff. I ran into an issue with the Flow-Thru Motor Housing I am devising, so I had to return a couple pieces and I am waiting on replacement parts. I am in contact with a couple vendors regarding the roast chamber and high temp gaskets. The cyclone is on its way from China. When I get a set of pieces to make a logical build episode, I will. Thanks to everybody for info, whether directly or indirectly from past threads and posts. It all helps. R/
Jared |
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| allenb |
Posted on 11/13/2019 4:57 PM
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 Administrator Posts: 3360 Location: Longmont, Colorado Joined: February 23, 2010 |
Youre moving along at a rapid pace! This is the Christmas morning phase when all the parts start arriving and can't wait to see it all come together. Keep us posted
1/2 lb and 1 lb drum, Siemens Sirocco fluidbed, presspot, chemex, cajun biggin brewer from the backwoods of Louisiana
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| jbrux4 |
Posted on 11/13/2019 9:05 PM
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1/4 Pounder Posts: 139 Location: Fairfax, VA Joined: October 26, 2019 |
Quote allenb wrote: Youre moving along at a rapid pace! This is the Christmas morning phase when all the parts start arriving and can't wait to see it all come together. Keep us posted I am moving fast. My wife and kids have raised a couple eyebrows so far, but they know exactly where to put the strange looking things that come in. R/
Jared |
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| jbrux4 |
Posted on 11/18/2019 2:27 PM
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1/4 Pounder Posts: 139 Location: Fairfax, VA Joined: October 26, 2019 |
QUESTION: FLEXIBLE MICA I am using a 1.5" stainless steel heat pipe which will have two heating elements in line. the elements will have less that 1/4" around the circumference. The ID of the pipe will have flexible mica as a sleeve. This mica will reduce the amoutn around the circumference of the element. Is this safe? What if the element physically touches the mica? Is there a chance of burn through of the mica leading to electrical shock? The mica is .020, rated to 930F, and 508v/mil: https://www.mcmas...m/85825k45 Thanks in advance.
jbrux4 attached the following image:
Edited by jbrux4 on 11/18/2019 7:34 PM R/
Jared |
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| jbrux4 |
Posted on 11/21/2019 2:56 PM
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1/4 Pounder Posts: 139 Location: Fairfax, VA Joined: October 26, 2019 |
Quote jbrux4 wrote: QUESTION: FLEXIBLE MICA I am using a 1.5" stainless steel heat pipe which will have two heating elements in line. the elements will have less that 1/4" around the circumference. The ID of the pipe will have flexible mica as a sleeve. This mica will reduce the amoutn around the circumference of the element. Is this safe? What if the element physically touches the mica? Is there a chance of burn through of the mica leading to electrical shock? The mica is .020, rated to 930F, and 508v/mil: https://www.mcmas...m/85825k45 Thanks in advance. From the non response - I am guessing I asked a self-evident question considering the specs of the mica. The self-evident answer is "of course it will work." Still waiting on some parts and pieces, and I still haven't found a suitable solution for the blower motor housing. I will keep searching. R/
Jared |
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| allenb |
Posted on 11/21/2019 5:13 PM
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Administrator Posts: 3360 Location: Longmont, Colorado Joined: February 23, 2010 |
Quote Is this safe? What if the element physically touches the mica? Is there a chance of burn through of the mica leading to electrical shock? Probably not a chance for burn through unless you lose air flow and nichrome turns to whitish yellow just before melting down. In that case, as long as the tube is well grounded, you'll pop the circuit breaker if the breaker is in good shape. Although it's theoretically safe, it's not in meeting best practice standards since this usually doesn't afford optimum air flow past all areas of the element since some of the coil turns will be touching the mica surface and those areas of the element will be to some degree hotter than the rest. Its best to use some form of stand-off to center the element. What I usually do is take a piece of mica board and cut a notch in it to allow sliding it snugly over the ends which forms a sort of "T" arrangement and keeps the element centered within the tube. 1/2 lb and 1 lb drum, Siemens Sirocco fluidbed, presspot, chemex, cajun biggin brewer from the backwoods of Louisiana
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| jbrux4 |
Posted on 11/22/2019 7:46 AM
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1/4 Pounder Posts: 139 Location: Fairfax, VA Joined: October 26, 2019 |
Quote allenb wrote: Quote Is this safe? What if the element physically touches the mica? Is there a chance of burn through of the mica leading to electrical shock? Probably not a chance for burn through unless you lose air flow and nichrome turns to whitish yellow just before melting down. In that case, as long as the tube is well grounded, you'll pop the circuit breaker if the breaker is in good shape. Although it's theoretically safe, it's not in meeting best practice standards since this usually doesn't afford optimum air flow past all areas of the element since some of the coil turns will be touching the mica surface and those areas of the element will be to some degree hotter than the rest. Its best to use some form of stand-off to center the element. What I usually do is take a piece of mica board and cut a notch in it to allow sliding it snugly over the ends which forms a sort of "T" arrangement and keeps the element centered within the tube. Understood allenb. I was planning on setting it in the center, but with the airflow causing possible vibration/movement over time, the possibility for the nichrome to touch the mica exists. However, since I have the ability to put this together and to take apart in pieces, I can monitor this when performing cleaning. I can also slide the mica out and look at the surface for any marks or burns. Thanks for the tip on how you have done this. R/
Jared |
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| jbrux4 |
Posted on 11/24/2019 11:00 AM
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1/4 Pounder Posts: 139 Location: Fairfax, VA Joined: October 26, 2019 |
Question: Unique Coupling Required - Any Examples of Proven Methods for My Use Case? The picture shows a flow through vacuum/blower with a Bain-Marie pot covering the motor. The unique compression needed is pressure around the circumference and top down to press the lid against the blower housing. The possibility exists to add a gasket between the two pieces which would add to the thickness dimension below. Dimensions: Fan Housing Diameter: 144.22mm, 5.678" Motor Housing Outer Ring: 146.43, 5.765" Bain Marie Lip: 7.84mm, .309" Motor Outer Ring and Bain Marie Lip Thickness: 3.7mm to 4.5mm, 0.146" to 0.177"
jbrux4 attached the following image:
R/
Jared |
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