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11/26/2020 6:37 AM
Everyone have a super Thanksgiving and may all your roasts turn out stellar woohoo

11/25/2020 4:20 PM
Howdy 1st CH and welcome to HR forum! Be sure to read in the forums to see if anything covers the topic and please post away in drum roaster forums Welcome

11/25/2020 3:35 PM
Hey everyone! I am new to the home roasters forum. Mainly here to read and learn! I’d also love to get advice about modifying my roaster (a Huky 500)

11/10/2020 5:29 PM
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11/08/2020 6:05 PM
Hello All, New here, started with an air popper, now using fresh roast 800. I'm here to learn and connect with others Thank you

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Hottop 2k+ Light Roast Profile
Njallen41
Hey Folks!

I am having a tough time getting any fruit notes out of my normally fruit bomb natural ethiopians. They taste bright, but there's almost no hint of fruit.

Any tips to getting a fruity light roast profile for pour over coffee on the Hottop 2k+?

Thanks!

Nick
Randy G
I have very little experience with light roasts at this point to be able to give you any direction on how to achieve that. You might try doing a search for "light roast profile" or "light roast profile [or 'curve'] Ethiopioan" on www.home-barista.com. Assuming that you are using Artisan to monitor your roasts, you could then either program or trace such a curve.

I no longer own a Hottop of any model, so that is about all I can help you with. Sorry.

Life's too short to drink bad coffee.
Njallen41
Thanks Randy for the response! There are some threads on home barista forums, but finding profiles for the Hottop can be challenging. As you know, electric roasters have a much harder time controlling temp than gas counterparts.

Anyone else have any luck roasting for fruitbombs with a hottop?
TeddyJ
Same here. My Hottop is very old (original version) and I have few options to modify the preset profile. Normally I roast to full-c or full-c+ for espresso, but a couple of weeks ago when roasting a Queen City Harrar, I stopped the roast just after the end of 1st. After two days of rest I tried it, but no fruit. Bummer.
I went on to something else and came after a week later. Surprise, there was a hint of blue berry. Not the fruit bomb I was hoping for, but still...
renatoa

Quote

Njallen41 wrote:

...As you know, electric roasters have a much harder time controlling temp than gas counterparts.



One of the myths without any support.
Before the heat source type, the heat exchange method is more important.
A drum roaster is a mess to control, either gas or electric.
Hot air roasters are other story, just set the optimal constant heat input, and the natural curve does the rest.
Tavake12
I had some interesting times working with Ethiopian coffees and my Hottop.
The main problem was that I ordered 5 lbs of "Ethiopian Yergacheffe" online, and frankly, it just wasn't Ethiopian Yergacheffe. I've been drinking EY for a long, long time, and I always enjoy the wonderful blueberry hints.
Some EY's have more, some have less, but all are nice and fruity. This one had zero, nada, none.
So I started getting Ethiopians from Sweet Maria's. The Organic Sidama's had the most fruity tones.

I get nice fruity tones in my (real) Ethiopian on my Hottop when I do this:

(These instructions are for 170 grams of green beans. That is my standard size for experimental roasting, as some of my experiments fail, and I don't like throwing out more than about $2.50 worth of coffee at a time)

1. ENVIRONMENTAL charge temperature of 360F seems to work well. I have done charges at 400F. Remember this is ET not BT.
2. Keep the heating element on high all the way through to First Crack. If you are watching an ROR curve, use air to make it smoother, but not too much. You need to keep the ET rising strongly.
3. Ramp down the heating element as soon as the first crack gets going, ramp the fan up to 20%. When the first crack is really rolling, turn off the burner.
4. Drop when bean temperature is about 386F, just about the end of first crack. This will give you a nice light roast. At this point each degree of temperature increase is making the beans darker and darker.

Warning, if you do this, your entire roast will take about 7 minutes, maybe less.

You can actually magnify the fruitiness by starting with a lower charge temperature, but I find that if I start with too low of a CT, I start getting acid flavors instead of fruity flavors--probably because the inner bean did not get a chance to fully develop (actually, I am skeptical about even this explanation).

Since I run my roasts exclusively with Artisan now, I have stopped watching the rate-of-rise of bean temperature so closely, and I pay much more attention to the rate of rise of the environmental temperature. What happens there gives you a preview of what will happen to the bean temperature.

Hope this works for you!
Edited by Tavake12 on 03/21/2020 1:15 PM
Njallen41
Thanks @Tavake, I'll try this out!
Tavake12
After some experience with this, I have refined it quite a bit.

To get the optimum varietal flavor out of my coffee with the HotTop, I need to get my BT up to 405 or 410 before charging it. I don't go above this.

If I charge with BT=410 F with ET at 450+ F, I get a very nice roast. I watch the burner controls when I charge. At this high temperature, sometimes the HotTop will shut off the burner upon charging. I just watch for this and turn it right back on, and everything is good.

Then I watch the roast, and *never* turn down the burner until I get well into the first crack. I have to keep that energy up all the way. Only late in the first crack do I need to drop the burner temperature.

If there is an upturn in the ET slope or BT ROR, I give it a little air (depending on how much coffee I are roasting. larger volumes like 225 gm are less responsive to the air). I always shut off the air immediately and watch the result. If it doesn't turn down in a second or two, I give it another jolt. I compare it to a previous roast, which gives me a clue where it wants to jump. It takes a bit more air to control the ROR as the roast proceeds, and I get a premonition of an ROR increase by watching the ET ROR. Until first crack, I am extremely conservative with the air "injections." Just a little too much fan, or for a little too long can have affects on the BT for 10-20 seconds, which is way too long.

Usually, not much is needed. Even if it gets a weird peak somewhere, the result is usually spectacular.

I have never gotten a truly excellent roast without a BT Charge temp over 400 degrees F.
Milagroman
Hi Tavake12,

When you are listing your temperatures, are those the temperatures that are displayed or have you adjusted them.

My Hottop consistently displays temperatures that are 20 degrees cooler than what is displayed.

When I drop at 380 (according to Hottop) that is equivalent to 400 degrees on other roasters that I have used.

I am going to try your higher charge temp and see what it does for me, but wanted to make sure that we are talking in the same temperature range.

Another thing that I find a bit disconcerting is: when I start my Hottop and it is warming up, the BT and the ET should be the same until the BT probe makes contact with the beans. I typically see a 10 degree difference between the BT and the ET with no beans in the drum, even though they start off at the same temperature. I am assuming that there maybe a difference in the probe specifications.
I physically moved the probe for BT down a little bit so that I am more in the bean mass as I typically roast about 179 grams per roast. (that gives me 3 even roast per pound)
I am controlling everything with Artisan.

Thanks for sharing your experiences.
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