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02/17/2021 7:20 PM
When your wife thinks 30 grams for a 6 cup setting is strong, you learn to drink muddy water when you are making coffee for both of you.

02/17/2021 8:32 AM
I use a rule of thumb of 60 grams per liter. 8 cups (1 liter, 32 oz) = 60 grams, 6 cups (3/4 liter, 24 oz) = 45 grams. 10 cups = 75 grams 12 cups = 90 grams

02/17/2021 1:47 AM
OldMan41, depends what is "a pot"... usually is more accurate to specify the brew ratio, instead grams of coffee. The most usual is 1:15, thus 40 grams for 600 ml of water. If the 100 grams are for one liter pot, then we are talking about 1:10 ratio.

02/16/2021 10:13 AM
Hey! I looked into how many grams per pot of coffee. WOW! 100grams? I only use 40+ish. Anybody else???

02/10/2021 7:05 AM
Thanks JackH. Just have so many other projects going, haven't taken the time to get on here. From time to time I would just glance and see what was going on.

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How Can I Disable This Type of Thermostat
Coffeeed
(NOTE -- two days later -- this thermostat is not responsible for the popper shutting off when it gets to hot. More below)

The DASH popcorn popper is awesome (easily handles batches of almost 150 grams) -- however, it's thermostat cuts out just as second crack gets going. I've disassembled it and its thermostat is different from classic poppers (which can be disabled just by popping out a little nubbin that is held by friction between two metallic strips).

Here are some pictures of the the heater plate (I've mislabeled the thermostat as thermal cutoff -- as I didn't know the correct name).

Any thoughts about the best way to disable or bypass it? I am pretty ignorant about this sort of thing. I tried to if the rivets could be easily removed but I was worried about breaking things.

p.s. I hope people don't mind that I broke this out of the other thread about this popper.

p.p.s Getting rid of the plastic bumps didn't have an impact. I guess the plastic block expands enough to break the connection when it heats up.
Coffeeed attached the following image:
a_heater_coil_3.jpg

Edited by Coffeeed on 10/04/2020 1:07 PM
btreichel
Looked like a P1 setup
Coffeeed

Quote

btreichel wrote:

Looked like a P1 setup


I havent seen a P1, but this thermostat is different from the one in the P2 and Pumper and Toastmaster all,of which had the same type of thermostat: two metal strips with a nodule between them that you could simply push out. I filed off the bumps on this and it has no impact,

An engineer friend suggested that I get a small bolt for each rivet and run a wire between them or to wrap wire to keep the copper bound to the other one.
Coffeeed
I realized last night that on the DASH popper, the thermal cutoff that is shutting down the popper is not the thermostat on the heating plate. It is attached to the barrel of the popper. Bypassing it is easy by snipping the wires and using a wire nut to splice them.

I hadnt thought to look at the barrel because all my previous poppers were very old school and didnt have such a cutoff.
Coffeeed
It turns out that the thermostat on the heating plate talked about above is not what turns the popper off when it gets too hot (which for me is happening at the onset of second crack -- so a handy feature if Full City+ is your preferred roast).

There is a thermal sensor/cutoff on the popper's barrel (see picture). When it is triggered the entire popper shuts off (till it cools down again). It is easily bypassed by snipping the wires and using a wire nut to splice them.
Coffeeed attached the following image:
barrel.jpg
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