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03/04/2021 9:04 PM
I have been trying Scott Rao Hario V60 pourover this week. 1:17 and blooming with 2 parts water the first 45 seconds then splitting the rest into 2 pours. A little stirring is included. We like it.

03/04/2021 11:35 AM
My brew ratio is 1:17 (exactly 59.5 g/L). That's roughly 8.5g per 5-oz cup.

02/27/2021 9:29 AM
I'm looking to hire someone to teach/help me to find the best roast profile for the 3 types of coffee that grow on my farm in nicaragua. I live in LA, but but could go anywhere in so cal with my Behmor for a roasting lesson. Please contact me if you're in

02/17/2021 7:20 PM
When your wife thinks 30 grams for a 6 cup setting is strong, you learn to drink muddy water when you are making coffee for both of you.

02/17/2021 8:32 AM
I use a rule of thumb of 60 grams per liter. 8 cups (1 liter, 32 oz) = 60 grams, 6 cups (3/4 liter, 24 oz) = 45 grams. 10 cups = 75 grams 12 cups = 90 grams

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Popper gets really hot after only a few seconds of heater on
hstan4
Hi, I couldn't find the right thread for this, so I hope this is the right place. I just recently turned my popper on for the first time after re-wiring it to the TC4+ build with the Arduino using the Artisan software. I've followed all of the setup and basic configuration, and was able to get the connection working properly and able to control the fan, heat, etc in Artisan.

The first time I connected in Artisan, though, the popper was already on and making noise even before I clicked start and changed the sliders or pushed the buttons to change the heater and fan speed. I checked with the fan going on and off, and it was working properly, and then I turned the heater on, which also began emitting hot air as expected, but then I powered them both off, yet the popper was extremely hot after only a few seconds of 50% heat.

I'm worried I've fried some components or have done something incorrectly, but wanted to ask here first and see if this is normal or if I should take apart the popper again and examine any components or wiring. I don't think the ET and BT was being measured properly either, but didn't get to look long enough to examine it before noticing how hot it was.

I hope someone will have some insight or can assure me this is normal, before I proceed trying again.

EDIT: as I disconnected it, and presumed it was off completely, there were two red lights flashing on each side of the TC4+/Arduino instead of just one, and also the red light on my SSR was on as well, if that gives any extra input or context to the problem. Thank you in advance for the help and I hope I didn't damage anything
renatoa
Solid red light on the SSR, without any flashing or flickering, means 100% heat.
Combined with a low fan, this could led to a fire.
Using a ZCD/ICC or slow PWM control ? i.e. what CONFIG option chosen for compile?
hstan4
I went with the most simple configuration options I could find from a few guides on the Artisan software and Arduino sketches. Which config are you referring to exactly, sorry, I'm a newbie, but can post whichever config once I know which one.

If it helps, I left the fan on 100% the entire team the heating element was on, but after turning the entire system off, it seemed the heat was still going, and I could hear what I presume to be the heating element in the popper making noises, and shut it off from power at that point.
renatoa
I meant the configuration you selected in user.h:

https://github.com/greencardigan/TC4-shield/blob/master/applications/Artisan/aArtisan_PID/trunk/src/aArtisanQ_PID/user.h

...starting with line 184

Also, how exactly you configured in Artisan the slider controlling the power?
hstan4
Ah Iím actually using the aArtisan script, which I was told was simpler, but can definitely flash that sketch if it could be the problem. Are there some basic config options for that I can refer to?
renatoa
Sorry, can't help more, no idea what is "aArtisan script".
mg512
I believe that's the aArtisan sketch, as opposed to aArtisanQ_PID. So should be PWM mode.

hstan4, where exactly did you see red LEDs flashing? On the TC4+, the only LEDs that might be flashing is the OT1/2 ones, but those are right next to each other. There are no other flashing LEDs on the "othe side" (neither left-right nor up-down). Could it be that your Arduino has red LEDs for the serial activity? If those were flashing, that would be normal.

As for the heating module, is it possible that you just didn't turn off the heat before you shut down Artisan / disconnected the USB cable? How exactly did you "turn off" the roaster?
renatoa

Quote

mg512 wrote:
... How exactly did you "turn off" the roaster?


Exactly, this is what I meant Artisan configurations of commands for heat control.
There isn't a single place where an OT1 command should be provided, if forgot to put one on STOP button for example, here you are... heat still blowing even if roast ended.
hstan4
I turned it off by pushing the heater button to go to 0% power as well as the fan to 0 and then clicked the "off" button in Artisan.

I am testing it again now, but for some reason, as soon as I connect AC power, the popper starts running even before I've clicked anything in Artisan, does that help with anything? I'll try again to see if I can find where the lights were going again, but am worried something will go wrong since it's turning on before I tell it to in Artisan.

EDIT: I turned it back on, and everything appears to be working fine now, and I'm simply going to cut off the AC power source whenever I'm letting it sit to ensure it's completely off which has worked so far. I am now, however, having problems with the ET and BT readings. As you can see in the image, the change in BT spikes up massively, but BT is never actually shown on the graphed results, and ET just barely breaks the bottom of it. I had the fan on by itself for the most part, and then turned the heater from between 50-65% but never noticed anything being returned on the temperature readings. I'm sure there's plenty on here I can read back through, but wanted to give an update that everything appears to be working otherwise.

One last EDIT: Attaching a new image of a dry run (no beans), seems the temperature recordings are in the negative range, hence why they didn't show up. I've seen the solution mentioned of how to fix this problem, but wanted to post this as well. Does this look like a more normal (minus the negative temperatures)/correct reading?

I also posted a picture of a full roast: beans never reached even first crack and look dried out/shriveled. Not sure why that happened, but will try again soon.
Thanks for all of the help.
hstan4 attached the following images:
scope-artisan.jpg artisan-2.jpg artisan-3.jpg

Edited by hstan4 on 12/12/2020 7:08 PM
renatoa
Before everything, a new setup should be tested without Artisan !
If the board alone don't operate correctly, then adding another unknown in the chain will make diagnosing worse.
If the popper still starts without being tethered to a computer, then SSR could be broken, or forced permanently ON by the board, or wrong connections.
Both cases I doubt that 50% heater is realistic, it is 100% or nothing, the heater is not under your control.
Until this is not fixed, there is no sense to talk about temperatures.
mg512
When you say the popper starts running, do you mean just the fan, or also the heater? And are you able to then turn things off through Artisan, or are they always on even if you set them to 0 in Artisan?
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