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renatoa
09/27/2022 7:35 AM
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Repairing/replacing heating element
zamunda
Hello,

I screwed up this heating element (mixed up fase and nul thumbdown).
Is it possible to fix these or replace it by a generic heating element in order not to buy another popcorn-popper?

Thanks!
zamunda attached the following image:
heatingelement.jpg

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renatoa
What is broken? I can't see from the picture...
The component connected to red wire is a thermal fuse, that usually melt at 270C, to protect the machine, check with a meter.
It can be replaced, or bypassed by a short circuit, but in this case you lose the protection next time.
Is the bi-metal still active, or locked in permanent ON position ?
Edited by renatoa on 05/06/2022 10:35 AM
 
zamunda
Hello Renatoa,

Thanks for your reply. I post some extra photos, does these tell you something more?

I can not see if the bi-metal is still active...how do I know?

If the thermal fuse is melted I should replace it?

Thanks again.
zamunda attached the following images:
ccc.jpg bbb_2.jpg aaa_5.jpg

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zamunda
Hello Renatoa,

Here I am measuring resistance over the fuse and the bi-metal.

If my conclusion is right, the fuse is still working but the bi-metal is open (if I press it down, it gives an expected value I guess) but please correct me if I am wrong.

If the bi-metal is damaged, how could I repair it or just solder it to keep it in place?

Thanks for any advice!
zamunda attached the following images:
cccc.jpg bbbb.jpg aaaaaa.jpg

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renatoa
Those 16-17 values, if Ohms, are intriguing for me... they are too high for the bimetal or thermal fuse... and too low for the heater wire.
You should read zero, as when you touch the probe tips.

To have an answer if your heater wire is still OK, you should measure between the two pads pointed by arrows as in the attached image. About 40-50 Ohms is expected to read there for a typical valid 1200W heater, for 230V EU mains.
renatoa attached the following image:
bbb_2_1.jpg
 
zamunda
Hello Renatoa,

Thanks for the info...

Quote


To have an answer if your heater wire is still OK, you should measure between the two pads pointed by arrows as in the attached image. About 40-50 Ohms is expected to read there for a typical valid 1200W heater, for 230V EU mains.


If I measure, I get no value, that is '0'...
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renatoa
Does your meter have different values on display for infinite resistance = interrupted circuit, and zero Ohms = short circuit?
On my meter infinity reads “0. L.” and short circuit reads "0.0"
 
zamunda
Hello Renatoa,

Quote

renatoa wrote:

Does your meter have different values on display for infinite resistance = interrupted circuit, and zero Ohms = short circuit?
On my meter infinity reads “0. L.” and short circuit reads "0.0"


I finally found another heating element from another Popper I had bought in the past. I measured there the resistance as you indicated and got 54 Ohms. This model only had a thermal fuse, no bi-metal (if I recall, this was on the outside of the chamber and could be easily removed).

I mounted this element on my popper and now it works as a charm again!

Thanks again for your help!
Edited by zamunda on 05/08/2022 3:09 AM
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