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Problem with electric control Quest M6 Coffee Roaster
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zamunda |
Posted on 06/14/2023 2:38 AM
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1/4 Pounder Posts: 173 Joined: November 17, 2020 |
Hello, I have roasted several batches with the Quest M6 Coffee Roaster which is a quite new model from a friend of mine. Yesterday when starting up the roaster I noticed that the ampere controller wasn't working properly anymore, that is, normally, after swithching on, we set it at 5.3-5,4 but now we can not control it anymore, it sticks always at 6. I do not know where that comes from, any ideas? Please see the video to check the issue. Regards Edited by zamunda on 06/14/2023 5:03 AM ########################
### A lot can happen over coffee ### ######################## |
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renatoa |
Posted on 06/14/2023 6:27 AM
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Administrator Posts: 3162 Joined: September 30, 2016 |
6 Amps equates roughly to 1300W, which I guess it's the roaster power. So the most probably control element is broken, i.e. the triac of the power variator. The unit needs a visit of an electronist, should not be a costly repair, the replacement part itself it's under $5. Something like this, used in RobotDyn dimmers: https://ro.farnel...dp/1175636 Or adapt an external regulator, as those 4000W SCR from Amazon, quoted here in various build threads. |
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zamunda |
Posted on 06/14/2023 11:19 AM
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1/4 Pounder Posts: 173 Joined: November 17, 2020 |
Hello Renatoa, Thanks for pointing this out! I have an external regulator 4000W I use for my Turbo roaster... But if I connect the Quest to this one to control the heat, won't it also control/bother the airflow-controller? Otherwise this would be a nice workaround while I look for a technician who can fix the power variator. Thanks and regards! Quote renatoa wrote: 6 Amps equates roughly to 1300W, which I guess it's the roaster power. So the most probably control element is broken, i.e. the triac of the power variator. The unit needs a visit of an electronist, should not be a costly repair, the replacement part itself it's under $5. Something like this, used in RobotDyn dimmers: https://ro.farnel...dp/1175636 Or adapt an external regulator, as those 4000W SCR from Amazon, quoted here in various build threads.
zamunda attached the following image:
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renatoa |
Posted on 06/14/2023 12:42 PM
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Administrator Posts: 3162 Joined: September 30, 2016 |
Depends which voltage/principle is the airflow controlled. If it is low voltage DC fan, controlled by PWM/IO3, then will be unaffected. The DC power source should deliver fixed 12V voltage in a broad range of mains. Just test and see. |
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zamunda |
Posted on 06/15/2023 2:30 AM
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1/4 Pounder Posts: 173 Joined: November 17, 2020 |
Quote renatoa wrote: Depends which voltage/principle is the airflow controlled. If it is low voltage DC fan, controlled by PWM/IO3, then will be unaffected. The DC power source should deliver fixed 12V voltage in a broad range of mains. Just test and see. Hello Renatoa, Thanks for your reply. OK, I'll will test! But I am now thinking that it might affect RPM of the drum as well which is not desirable? Anyway I will test and let you know. ########################
### A lot can happen over coffee ### ######################## |
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renatoa |
Posted on 06/15/2023 2:49 AM
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Administrator Posts: 3162 Joined: September 30, 2016 |
Again, as for the fan, depends which motor style you have for drum. To be sure nothing is affected,the simplest way would be to feed the heater only from the external variator. Is it so scary to open the roaster black box and identify the circuits following the wires ? |
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zamunda |
Posted on 06/15/2023 3:34 AM
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1/4 Pounder Posts: 173 Joined: November 17, 2020 |
Hello Renatoa, OK, I am not scared to open it but to understand what I see is the difficult part . Here are some pictures:
zamunda attached the following images:
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zamunda |
Posted on 06/15/2023 8:53 AM
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1/4 Pounder Posts: 173 Joined: November 17, 2020 |
Hello Renatoa, Quote renatoa wrote: Let the motors alone, let's focus on heater connections...please follow them. One of the heater wires should go to mains, the other to a relay/control box. Thanks, I think I found that out: pics are showing one wire going to mains other pic showing cable to knob of controlbox. So I guess if I disconnect both cables by removing the screws and connect them directly through the external controller, it should work ok? Thanks again!
zamunda attached the following images:
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renatoa |
Posted on 06/15/2023 9:17 AM
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Administrator Posts: 3162 Joined: September 30, 2016 |
And I found the heater control switcher... why not just change that part ? Can you dismount from the screw and read the component code ? If possible without un-soldering terminals... If identified, maybe you can even order an equivalent, from mouser of other components store ...
renatoa attached the following image:
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zamunda |
Posted on 06/15/2023 9:37 AM
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1/4 Pounder Posts: 173 Joined: November 17, 2020 |
Quote renatoa wrote: And I found the heater control switcher... why not just change that part ? Can you dismount from the screw and read the component code ? If possible without un-soldering terminals... If identified, maybe you can even order an equivalent, from mouser of other components store ... OK, thanks, I'll try ########################
### A lot can happen over coffee ### ######################## |
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zamunda |
Posted on 06/15/2023 10:11 AM
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1/4 Pounder Posts: 173 Joined: November 17, 2020 |
Hello Renatoa, This is a pic, I dismounted it and I hope you can identify the part... What I can read from it is "BTA16 6008 CHN 408"...or "BTA16 600B CHN 408" ...is this all the info needed? Could it be this one? https://www.conra...151306.htm Thanks for your support! Quote renatoa wrote: And I found the heater control switcher... why not just change that part ? Can you dismount from the screw and read the component code ? If possible without un-soldering terminals... If identified, maybe you can even order an equivalent, from mouser of other components store ...
zamunda attached the following image:
Edited by renatoa on 06/15/2023 11:59 AM |
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renatoa |
Posted on 06/15/2023 11:59 AM
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Administrator Posts: 3162 Joined: September 30, 2016 |
Yep, that is, same as I pointed to in post #2. |
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zamunda |
Posted on 06/15/2023 12:15 PM
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1/4 Pounder Posts: 173 Joined: November 17, 2020 |
Quote Great, I ordered it. Let you know how it goes! Regards, ########################
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Beanz |
Posted on 06/15/2023 11:33 PM
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Newbie Posts: 5 Joined: June 15, 2023 |
The control circuit can be found in the Quest manual on Sweet Marias site, page 14 https://library.s...-links.pdf Edited by Beanz on 06/16/2023 12:19 AM |
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zamunda |
Posted on 06/16/2023 1:12 AM
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1/4 Pounder Posts: 173 Joined: November 17, 2020 |
Quote Beanz wrote: The control circuit can be found in the Quest manual on Sweet Marias site, page 14 https://library.s...-links.pdf Thanks! ########################
### A lot can happen over coffee ### ######################## |
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renatoa |
Posted on 06/16/2023 2:02 AM
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Administrator Posts: 3162 Joined: September 30, 2016 |
Pretty basic dimmer schematic on heater and airflow. The same as the dimmers used for light (not LED) dimming. They didn't even used a snubber circuit on blower motor, which is not kosher, unless the T1 triac is snubberless type. And yes, a voltage control placed outside roasterbox would change airflow when changing heater... but not drum, nor cooler... only if you don't go under 70% with heater (70% on external control I mean) |
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zamunda |
Posted on 06/16/2023 7:59 AM
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1/4 Pounder Posts: 173 Joined: November 17, 2020 |
Quote zamunda wrote: Quote Beanz wrote: The control circuit can be found in the Quest manual on Sweet Marias site, page 14 https://library.s...-links.pdf Thanks! My friend who owns the Quest would like to have control over drumspeed (RPM) since he considers the stock value as quite low. Would this be difficult/easy to accomplish (since I have it opened right now )? Regards, ########################
### A lot can happen over coffee ### ######################## |
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renatoa |
Posted on 06/16/2023 12:01 PM
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Administrator Posts: 3162 Joined: September 30, 2016 |
Assuming the motor is induction type, as the schematic suggest, yes, is difficult to do this electrical, needs frequency change, like 60-70 Hz instead 50 Hz. Such converters are usually built for big power motors, and aren't cheap. A mechanical alternative is to change the gear ratio, if done using a belt-pulley system. Pretty simple to do if using a standard timing belt system, like AT or GT, just replace the wheels with other tooth count. Knowing the motor type and mount would help a lot for a more personalized response. |
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zamunda |
Posted on 06/16/2023 12:47 PM
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1/4 Pounder Posts: 173 Joined: November 17, 2020 |
Quote renatoa wrote: Assuming the motor is induction type, as the schematic suggest, yes, is difficult to do this electrical, needs frequency change, like 60-70 Hz instead 50 Hz. Such converters are usually built for big power motors, and aren't cheap. A mechanical alternative is to change the gear ratio, if done using a belt-pulley system. Pretty simple to do if using a standard timing belt system, like AT or GT, just replace the wheels with other tooth count. Knowing the motor type and mount would help a lot for a more personalized response. OK, thanks for your ideas! ########################
### A lot can happen over coffee ### ######################## |
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zamunda |
Posted on 06/17/2023 8:57 AM
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1/4 Pounder Posts: 173 Joined: November 17, 2020 |
Hello, Today the triac arrived so I tried to replace the old one. However, when disassembling it the little blue one broke... So what to do now? Quote
zamunda attached the following image:
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zamunda |
Posted on 06/17/2023 9:16 AM
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1/4 Pounder Posts: 173 Joined: November 17, 2020 |
Hello, Things got worse I think... Please look at the picture... The red arrows indicate how the triac should be re-soldered according to what I wrote down. However, as said the blue one got broken so I guess have to replace it and the orange one has 1 pin missing from what I see at a closer look. So this one should be replaced as well I guess but where should that missing pin soldered to? Thanks for your help! Quote zamunda wrote: Hello, Today the triac arrived so I tried to replace the old one. However, when disassembling it the little blue one broke... So what to do now? Quote
zamunda attached the following image:
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### A lot can happen over coffee ### ######################## |
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renatoa |
Posted on 06/17/2023 9:17 AM
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Administrator Posts: 3162 Joined: September 30, 2016 |
It's the "diac 2" in the schematic, this component or very close: https://www.conra...2-v-186406 What's next ? |
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zamunda |
Posted on 06/17/2023 9:22 AM
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1/4 Pounder Posts: 173 Joined: November 17, 2020 |
Quote renatoa wrote: It's the "diac 2" in the schematic, this component or very close: https://www.conra...2-v-186406 What's next ? Thanks Renatoa! And how about the one in the orange oval?
zamunda attached the following image:
Edited by zamunda on 06/17/2023 9:53 AM ########################
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renatoa |
Posted on 06/17/2023 11:10 AM
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Administrator Posts: 3162 Joined: September 30, 2016 |
Capacitor, check schematic in the pdf linked by @Beanz Not sure which one of them, they are two, 22nF if connected to diac, 120 nF if connected to pot. |
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Yasu |
Posted on 06/19/2023 2:02 AM
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1/4 Pounder Posts: 75 Joined: March 27, 2022 |
Since it appears to be 473K 400V with a capacitor. 47 x 10 cubic PF = 47000 PF = 0.047 μF capacitance and 400 V withstand voltage. https://www.amazo...amp;sr=8-1 https://www.allum...calculator Edited by Yasu on 06/19/2023 3:31 AM |
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