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renatoa wrote:
The Discord invite link is this: https://discord.g...

ctjameson wrote:

So I took the original setup and cleaned it up a lot. Designed a case for the header-less model Leonardo and made it a USB-C female instead of a cord attached directly to it. This makes it much more modular. I’m super happy with how it turned out. I’ll release the files later this afternoon when I get back to my computer. Sweet Maria’s delivery today, going to do a couple lbs tomorrow and report back.

renatoa wrote:

highly advisable to open a new roaster, in order to solve somewhat the heatsink (lack of) airflow.
For an US model is quite mandatory, imo. At least drilling some holes.

marimohead wrote:


Is the easiest way to reuse the filter fan and fan header next to the usb port? Then no soldering is required, only drilling holes in the case and attach the fan to the outside, correct?

thanks

Mike_Mathis wrote:

Here is how I did it.
...
renatoa thinks it's ugly.j/k

allenb wrote:

hugojack, big welcome to HRO! The Skywalker roaster appears to be new enough to classify it as a work in progress with different mods giving different results. I don't think there has been enough time for there to be a consensus on a "best practice" mod yet.

But, if you let everyone know your skill level with electronics tinkering and if you've previously worked with microcontrollers like the Arduino with TC4 or other sensor interface, our members can probably direct you in a direction that will improve the stock roaster.

renatoa wrote:

If you are in US, or your model is 115V, the first mandatory mod is the SCR heatsink cooling.
There are at least three goods ways how to do this exposed back in this thread, I can't recommend any of them without knowing your tinkering or soldering skills.

The second mandatory thing you must understand and learn, there is no mod to fix this, just good practice, is to not overuse the heater lamp without reason, as is the default preheat of this machine, using 100% power and no airflow.
Always preheat in manual mode, under same conditions as during a roast: maximum 75% power and minimum 50% airflow.

Charge funnel optimization? Optional. Do you have access to a 3D printer, or prefer a tin can solution ?

HarryDog wrote:

Hello HugoJack, I want to point out that this roaster is made in China, you will find oddities in the wiring so I can point out two that I have seen. One is on the top power supply board the pins for 24v are reversed to the connector so you need to swap the leads in the fan connector if you want to power a fan from it. Second you can see in my picture of my last mod (Post #282), the motor for the exhaust fan is wired in reverse? you will see the black wire on the +V connection. People are blowing up the board when they swap out their motors, this is second hand info as I have not verified this but beware.

Also they have 2 control boards so we just don't know what all could be different on them? I don't know of any step by step instructions for the SCR improvements?

The Github has pretty good instructions for the Arduino setup and basic settings for Artisan, people have been adding some Artisan setup files but if you don't understand what it's doing it's hard to understand what's happening to your roast or how to change it?

https://github.co...kerRoaster

Don't let this scare you and best of luck with what you want to do with your new toy!!!

HarryDog wrote:

Welcome, in the other thread you mentioned you are from Montreal so I would add a fan 24v to the heat sink on the controller board. I just seen a picture of a newer board that has a larger heat sink so I think a larger fan can be mounted on it. 40mmx20mm. Wired to the power board, note the wiring is backwards on mine so I popped the pins out of the connector and swapped them and that way it's a nice clean connection.

You will need to verify voltage and connections as I have not touched a new board yet. The manufacturer might have a couple of different boards?

renatoa wrote:

It should be 3 times bigger the heatsink, and completely open air, to not require a fan, for the 110V units.
If they used the same closed electronics enclosure, a heatink just slightly bigger is still a palliative.

The best you could do is... hopes you ordered a 230V version, they are capable to be operated as they, for a single roast session, then wait to cool completely for the next session. No back to back long life even for 230V versions, if not modded.

HarryDog wrote:

This is the mod we hope to keep the chip from over heating with using the fan. I don't think I have seen posts of the thermal run away after the mod?

Note improving the air flow inside the box (Coffin) is a good idea as well. Moving the chip outside is more work but beneficial. Note the heatsink on the old board is hot electrically so the heatsink is live with 120v in north America. Suspect the new board is the same.