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Skywalker roaster mods
Nirecue
Top  #251 Print Post
Posted on 02/28/2024 2:22 AM

Quote

renatoa wrote:

Because 24V fans aren't common, someone can approach a dual 12V fan setup, connected in series.
One fan on the heatsink, and the other on the enclosure, to evacuate hot air inside.


I have a few 3010 and 4010 24v toolhead fans from building Voron 3D printers. There was a big push for 24V all around to decrease the amount of power supplies and move steppers away from 12V in their line up of printers. Right now I have 3010 24V on the heatsink and 6020 24V fan about to be mounted in that configuration once I find my drill bits. I did run the machine with for about 20 minutes at 60% up to ~235c with the electronics coffin mounted and back panel attached with only 3 screws. As soon I unplugged the roaster I removed the back panel as fast as I could to expose the open side of the electronics coffin. I measured around 54c at the Thyristor. Found a 3515 24V I am going to try that as well.
 
renatoa
Top  #252 Print Post
Posted on 02/28/2024 6:54 AM
Same here, under 40 degrees after a preheat at 80%.
Fan on the heatsink is definitely the way to go.
Much more effective than a bigger heatsink.

For those that will go on the heatsink removal outside the plastic enclosure, please be aware that the heatsink is LIVE ! i.e. carry the mains voltage, so the mount is mandatory to be made without contact with roaster case/chassis.
 
HarryDog
Top  #253 Print Post
Posted on 02/28/2024 8:22 AM

Quote

renatoa wrote:

For those that will go on the heatsink removal outside the plastic enclosure, please be aware that the heatsink is LIVE ! i.e. carry the mains voltage, so the mount is mandatory to be made without contact with roaster case/chassis.


Great was thinking of moving the Heatsink now not, maybe this is why they have it in the plastic case to keep people from accidentally touching it.
 
allenb
Top  #254 Print Post
Posted on 02/28/2024 8:44 AM
Why not just use a mica or other electrical isolator between SSR and sink as we do with audio transistors. These do not impede thermal conductance as long as thermal paste is used. Now, this only works if the heat sink isn't part of the circuit conducting path to ground.
1/2 lb and 1 lb drum, Siemens Sirocco fluidbed, presspot, chemex, cajun biggin brewer from the backwoods of Louisiana
 
HarryDog
Top  #255 Print Post
Posted on 02/28/2024 9:43 AM
Well I thought they were all ground now but if Hot it can't be ground?

I do have some materials saved from tear downs that might work, need to find my junk boxes, should have some other heatsinks as well.
The fan I used in that video recorder Noctua NF-A4x20 FLX, Premium Quiet Fan, 3-Pin (40x20mm) it is 12v. Needed some help cooling a POE side of the recorder and still working well after 4 years. I did not see a 24v version. it got hot but probably not like this job?

It would have been nice to bolt to the exterior wall without playing around. I have lots of thermal compound.

Does anyone know if they make an extender to move the TO-220AB chip off the board?
I seen something like this in the old days not sure if they were any good to use?
I'm not able to find any with a search.
Edited by HarryDog on 02/28/2024 10:37 AM
 
renatoa
Top  #256 Print Post
Posted on 02/28/2024 10:48 AM
On the original PCB board heatsink is soldered on two pads that are isolated from the rest of PCB.

Mica is not enough, the screw also must be isolated.
If the heatsink is mounted with plastic raisers on plastic enclosure, the risk of touching something is close to zero.

My final mod looks as attached, and probably will let it as is, as cool is the heatsink now.
renatoa attached the following images:
whatsapp_image_2024-02-28_at_183546.jpeg whatsapp_image_2024-02-28_at_183548.jpeg
 
HarryDog
Top  #257 Print Post
Posted on 02/28/2024 11:03 AM
Any pictures of the wiring? Looks like the small black and red of the fan but two large black and blue/red wires?
 
renatoa
Top  #258 Print Post
Posted on 02/28/2024 11:09 AM
The large wires using braided fiberglass insulation were already there, the mains wiring between the two boards.
You can see them in the attached image with everything opened, after heatsink removal.

The two black wires under the fan, along with a thinner, invisible orange one, are the cables for the SCR externalization.
They are connecting 1:1 the SCR pins to the former soldering pads on the PCB
renatoa attached the following image:
whatsapp_image_2024-02-28_at_191348.jpeg
Edited by renatoa on 02/28/2024 11:22 AM
 
Dan N
Top  #259 Print Post
Posted on 02/28/2024 11:26 AM
I'm thinking about cutting a hole in the back of the metal case behind the electronics and mounting an external fan blowing in. This would cool both boards.

The cooling fan cover is partly in the way but I can remove it since I don't use the cooling tray. Likely will use 1 of the 60x20mm cooling fans. I wouldn't want to use metal screws by the electronics, so maybe push-in silicone fan mounts.

In anticipation I've already moved the product and serial number stickers.
Edited by Dan N on 02/28/2024 11:31 AM
 
HarryDog
Top  #260 Print Post
Posted on 02/28/2024 11:30 AM
Was thinking of using brass spade connectors on the wires (2.8mm work) and just adding a touch of solder? Should be able to solder and un-solder easily on the chip? Solder other side directly to board?
 
allenb
Top  #261 Print Post
Posted on 02/28/2024 1:47 PM

Quote

renatoa wrote:

Mica is not enough, the screw also must be isolated.
If the heatsink is mounted with plastic raisers on plastic enclosure, the risk of touching something is close to zero.


Wow, my bad! Forgot to mention that major detail and without dealing with the metal attachment screw, is still conducting to the heat sink. When I was isolating audio transistors, I had used some high temp, non-conducting sleeve/washer arrangement that prevented the screw from shorting the chip to heatsink. Probably not worth the hassle to locate and purchase the proper isolation components for a one time need as this.

Thanks again for pointing this oversight out! Shock
1/2 lb and 1 lb drum, Siemens Sirocco fluidbed, presspot, chemex, cajun biggin brewer from the backwoods of Louisiana
 
renatoa
Top  #262 Print Post
Posted on 02/28/2024 2:46 PM
nowadays... we have plastic screws Grin
 
allenb
Top  #263 Print Post
Posted on 02/28/2024 3:23 PM
Alright, hold on here, I was born after the invention of plastic! Shock
1/2 lb and 1 lb drum, Siemens Sirocco fluidbed, presspot, chemex, cajun biggin brewer from the backwoods of Louisiana
 
HarryDog
Top  #264 Print Post
Posted on 02/28/2024 3:59 PM
I have a cpu blower I'm going to see if I can mount it inside, the heatsink screws to a hard like bakelite plastic maybe that can take the heat? Need to do some testing and see.
 
Nirecue
Top  #265 Print Post
Posted on 02/28/2024 8:46 PM

Quote

HarryDog wrote:

I have a cpu blower I'm going to see if I can mount it inside, the heatsink screws to a hard like bakelite plastic maybe that can take the heat? Need to do some testing and see.


3010 and 3510 able to keep the heatsink cool in the coffin. 3010 did about 54.4C after 14+min at 60%.
Nirecue attached the following image:
fan3010.jpg
 
Dan N
Top  #266 Print Post
Posted on 03/03/2024 11:02 AM
I installed an external fan (using 1 of the cooling fans blowing in) to cool the electronics. The back of the case now stays cool where it used to be very hot from conducted heat from the exhaust air. That extra heat likely contributes to the electronics failures.

I'm running the fan at 50% to reduce noise. Seems to be plenty of air flow coming out the vent slots. We'll see how it works on the hottest summer days. I can' always increase it to 100% or add a small fan on the heatsink.
Dan N attached the following images:
external-fan.jpg case-hole.jpg
 
YUL MTL
Top  #267 Print Post
Posted on 03/04/2024 9:07 AM
I've been silently following all the Skywalker threads so far. You guys have really done a terrific job, and I'm about to take the plunge to join you ! Keep up the good (and generous) work...
I've never ordered something directly from China so I'm still a bit uncomfortable about that. If some of the Canucks out there can PM me to share their experience and the process, I'd really appreciate !
Coming from about 5 years roasting on a Behmor, I still consider myself a newbie. I have been wanting to join the Artisan-control bandwagon for a while now, but the options were all too costly (for me) for a pound-class roaster. This seems to be my way in at last!
Again, thank you all for the work you are sharing...
 
renatoa
Top  #268 Print Post
Posted on 03/04/2024 11:43 AM
I'd hold off on buying anything from these guys until the first reports of new model fixes come in.

Call me crazy, but I have a bad feeling that they didn't fixed anything related to the root cause of the issue, but just added more safety measures, against fire.

If they want restore their credibility, they should issue a public statement in a very visible place about detailed description of fixes and changes, not rely on us to guess what they thought.
 
YUL MTL
Top  #269 Print Post
Posted on 03/04/2024 1:24 PM
Thanks for chiming in, renatoa... This sounds like wise advice.

Although, considering all the noise made on the various forums about that overheating/fire risk issue, you'd think they would have reacted by now if their reputation mattered at all to them. My expectations are low at the moment.
 
renatoa
Top  #270 Print Post
Posted on 03/05/2024 6:30 AM
As far as I know something the manufacturing processes, the time is too short for them to make significant changes, as new mold for the electronics enclosure or similar.
 
Mike_Mathis
Top  #271 Print Post
Posted on 03/05/2024 8:41 AM
I agree that to alter a marketed production item to this degree is not a short order. The manufacturers/marketers are telling some of the people on SW discord they will ship revised units around March 20. I am skeptical of this. I am NOT a Production Engineer, Design Engineer, or Electrical Engineer, but to redesign, add multiple components, decide if they will fit on current PCB or if it will require a change? Will the structure to encase this change need to be redesigned. Will the logic in the controller need to change? Do they need to redesign the controller? Will it fit in current parameters? Does this NEW electronics scheme need to be tested? Do they have an approval board to allow them to sell to the public? Do they change the marketing campaign to reflect a safer product? Are they going to reprint the manual? Are they going to reshoot their YouTube videos? Do they have a legal team? What about the roasters they have out in the hands of customers all over the world? I'm sure I have only touched on a minuscule part of what needs to be considered.

Questions.

One month time frame.

We'll see.

If they pull this off, then I will give them kudos for being responsible marketing production companies.

JMO

P.S. The guys on SW discord are doing some very interesting brainstorming to attempt improvements to this roasting device. Their smartness is only rivaled by their zeal.
*Fresh Roast SR800 w/ext tube Phidgets & Artisan
*Kaffelogic Nano 7
*Skywalker V1 (heavily modded)
*2023 BC-2
 
YUL MTL
Top  #272 Print Post
Posted on 03/05/2024 9:23 AM

Quote

Mike_Mathis wrote:
P.S. The guys on SW discord are doing some very interesting brainstorming to attempt improvements to this roasting device. Their smartness is only rivaled by their zeal.

Hi Mike, I tried to search for the SW Discord server but couldn't find it. I've never joined a Discord server before so forgive my ignorance if the answer to my question is obvious to everyone...
Could you give me some pointers to find it please?
 
renatoa
Top  #273 Print Post
Posted on 03/05/2024 9:44 AM
All of the above depicts major changes... that aren't a must to be done right now...
The emergency is to fix the SCR heatsink issue, which is a simply fix, as @Nirecue shown above.
They don't need any redesign to place a fan on the heatsink and wire it to the 24V source.
What worry me is that they are in their email talking about unrealistic and not necessary changes, just palliative, and no word about ... the elephant in the roaster.

The Discord invite link is this: https://discord.g...
 
Mike_Mathis
Top  #274 Print Post
Posted on 03/05/2024 11:52 AM

Quote

renatoa wrote:

All of the above depicts major changes... that aren't a must to be done right now...
The emergency is to fix the SCR heatsink issue, which is a simply fix, as @Nirecue shown above.
They don't need any redesign to place a fan on the heatsink and wire it to the 24V source.
What worry me is that they are in their email talking about unrealistic and not necessary changes, just palliative, and no word about ... the elephant in the roaster.

The Discord invite link is this: https://discord.g...


I just received the fan. Any ideas about which of the headers on the board to plug it into so it runs continuously? The fan connector is the same as the ones on the board. Would be very clean to use one. I want to use the USB-C on the outside of the back to run a fan blowing into the enclosure.

No doubt, my post above was more than an emergency. It was about a proper and complete revision.
*Fresh Roast SR800 w/ext tube Phidgets & Artisan
*Kaffelogic Nano 7
*Skywalker V1 (heavily modded)
*2023 BC-2
 
renatoa
Top  #275 Print Post
Posted on 03/05/2024 11:57 AM
Look for the plug labelled CN1/+24V, near the heatsink.
~~~
renatoa attached the following image:
image_2024-03-05_195215901.png
 
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