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Skywalker roaster mods


The_Coffee_Rabbit_Hole wrote:

Is this anyone of you ?

Nirecue is member here, but not very active.
Our mods, and Nirecue mod too, can be seen some pages ago, starting with post #233.
I cannot evaluate the area of ​​the radiant surface at the moment, but:
- if it were 3 times larger than the original one,
- the "coffin" has airflow, naturally not forced,
... then it could be a solution... for European models.

For the US ones, and especially for back to back roasts, without cooling between roasts, I still don't see this fix as viable.
This is not an opinion, it's a fact, that triac needs at most a 4K/W thermal resistance heatsink, measured in open air, to be appropriate for the currents used in US models.
Such heatsink should be about 50x42x25 mm, about 5-10 mm on all directions bigger than the improved version.
More important, would not fit inside the actual plastic case.
Check this link for an example of such heatsink: https://sa.rsdeli...ip/1898151

The 4K/W figure means that in the worst case, an US model at 100% power, when the SCR dissipates 10W, the heatsink temperature will raise to 25 ambient + 4*10 = 65C degrees.
Pretty comfortable, compared with a PC CPU, which should top at 75C, by industry standards.
Again... in open air, not in a sarcophagus...
Edited by renatoa on 05/21/2024 1:08 AM
Would something like this be better ?
The_Coffee_Rabbit_Hole attached the following image:
If using a fan, it is enough even placed on the original heatsink, as some of us already did.
The temperature will stay under 60C degrees for long time, in any power regime.
Have you browsed the collection of existing mods on this subject, as pointed in a post above ?


renatoa wrote:

If using a fan, it is enough even placed on the original heatsink, as some of us already did.
The temperature will stay under 60C degrees for long time, in any power regime.
Have you browsed the collection of existing mods on this subject, as pointed in a post above ?

Ok this is very reassuring . In all honesty i havent red everything . This week i red in diagonal but i plan to sit with a good cup of coffee this week end and carefully read the 12 pages
Just so you know , itop guy confirme me that the gen 2 on this roaster will connect to artisan but will only come by 2025
Computer tethering mod using TC4 protocol is already here, there is no reason to wait.

Funny to hear that the August-September-fall estimation, from the video they did one month ago, moved to 2025.
Surely will have alternate control panel choices before they issue their V2.


sloppyjosh wrote:

The roaster sends temperature data in the first 4 bytes and a checksum in the 7th byte back to the controller..
There may be something else in there, too.. I'm not sure..
I haven't observed any correlation with the 5th and 6th bytes. They're almost always 0x00 and 0x01.

0x3, 0xf4, 0x3, 0x6e, 0x0, 0x1, 0x69 -- Temp 86F
0x1, 0x8, 0x0, 0x16, 0x0, 0x1, 0x20 -- Temp 429F


I found out the 6th byte meaning... the hard way :o
Is the drum turning feedback from the roaster.
If 0, then controller displays the dreaded error E3...
Error that started exhibit sporadically on my machine, but now is permanent, when temperature is over 180C, thus during preheat.
The drum is mechanically stuck, and cant be moved until cooled down.
Seems a bearings issue. Will start an issue ticket at AliExpress, to see if the seller offer any support after almost 6 months from acquisition.
A stronger motor is not a fix imo, the drum lock is very stiff indeed, like a car brake.
hahahasky on discord reports the bearing is too tight on the V1. Was waiting for mine to seize up.
How is this done ? Special tools needed ?
The back bearing has a snap ring, if you pull that out the bearing could be pulled and replaced. It might be pressed in? You might need a bearing puller to remove it. If so the case is aluminum and might be hard to remove without breaking something? I have not pulled this apart.

English is not his native tongue so not sure if he just means it's a faulty or poorly sized bearing? Too tight could be a faulty bearing.
I have inquired if anyone else has pulled this bearing and if we have a line on a part?
Edited by HarryDog on 05/07/2024 10:16 AM
Already removed the C-clip (snap ring), months ago, in the first days, just out of curiosity to observe the build to the deepest level.
There are two bearings, an internal bearing, facing to the roast chamber, and an outer bearing, the one you are describing.
Didn't tried to extract none of them.
Then, some dozens of roasts used the machine without C-clip, but found that the drum advance a hair every roast, and soon the drum starts to rub on front panel.
Nothing dramatic, just a bit of noise, no locking, no roast lost.
That moment a single rubber hammer light knock was been enough to push the drum backward in the initial/factory position, and it is good for another month/dozen of roasts.
This routine worked until recently, when I decided to reattach the C-clip... from that moment the locks appeared... no idea what I did wrong...
I am tempted to remove again the C-clip, and replace it with a piano wire retaining ring, maybe the two ears of C-clip are hanging something on the ring border...
Regarding "bearing is too tight on V1"... I can't imagine how could be otherwise, if the drum flange has a natural trend to advance backwards, due to the beans load, and the only piece who stop this movement is the retaining clip, which transfer the drum advancing pressure on the bearing...

A possible fix could be to add two drum support rolls on the front panel, like in the attached image.
renatoa attached the following image:
Can we grease the bearings and do you think it would help, or is the bind beyond that?
*Kaffelogic Nano 7
*Skywalker V1
*2023 BC-2
They are encapsulated bearing, no maintenance.
We can only hope they used bearings with high temperature grease inside.
No sign of grease leaks so far, fortunately...
Regarding "bearing is too tight on V1" I'm going from memory but I think stiff or harder to rotate was my interpretation? His response much later was a new one was smoother and easier to rotate then the V1 version. I think he is a small distributor in Taiwan, so he has units to compare.

I don't have much for wear on my front plate so the snap ring must be holding it in place?
I rotated my drum when I got it and thought it was a touch tough to move?
I just tried it now and think it's easier to rotate then before, I think this is actually ok now.

I don't know how much I have roasted so far but 20kg maybe? Just did a few roasts on the weekend and run through 2.5kg. Thinking the bearing might have caused some issues by now?

Normally a snap ring holds the bearing from moving at all (on the outside Race), if that race can spin it will wear the housing.
When motor is in place you can rotate the drum tough, but the motor gearbox resistance is obviously. As when you try pushing a car with the gearbox engaged Grin

If motor is dismounted the drum should almost... freewheel.
I think you can evaluate the bearing tightness only in this case, without motor shaft coupled.

The bearings don't move without a puller, they are driven into the flange using a power tool, combined with temperature, I guess. Certainly not with free hand or hammer.
So in this case the role of snap ring is to keep drum not sliding toward the front panel, not to keep bearings in place.
Is there an "official" list of all the V2 changes/fixes somewhere?
Manufacturer chat girl is very secretive on this aspect...
Not that I'm aware of, this info is from the Discord. They started a Skywalker Mod chat but not much in it so far.
This is a short vid, slightly convincing? Put it on Google Drive.

Posted by lookatthegeeks

bearing is a 6807Z in his picture you can see the number stamped on the bearing.
The main drum bearing is a 6807Z which is 35mm ID, 47mm OD, and 7mm wide.
Edited by HarryDog on 05/13/2024 6:04 PM
just a lil update on my roaster , I should get it today or tomorow smile ... also I bought a used cremina this week end smile great timing !
I got my skywalker , at first glance all look good , feel similar to my hottop quality wise . I didnt knew that the filter had a fan in it and was plugable on the unit . Also the back with the double fan seem to be different
I've been lurking for a while and just pulled the trigger on Aliexpress for the ITOP IT-MTCR, Leonardo and Arduino. I've dealt with that type of environment before a few times, have an Arduino based CNC router I built along with a couple of 3D printers. I've been roasting on a Behmor for something like 16 years now and decided it was time to step up into the Artisan realm. I do have a bunch of small 12V fans from my 3D printer projects and might look at doubling a couple up to handle any extra heat dissipation needed, with one directly on the heat sink and another vented to the outside. My current thinking is to do a couple of roasts with the stock setup, then mod and try them again with Artisan.
If first roasts will be stock, do the roaster a favor and don't preheat at default 100% and no fan. Will thank you.
If you are on 110-120V this is mandatory, imo.
Use for preheat the maximum power will push during roast, about 75%, and at least 50% fan.
Heh, the roaster showed up in Los Angles, on it's way here to Oregon, on Saturday. Then they shipped it to Memphis where it arrived on Sunday morning, where they apparently immediately shipped it to Portland where it also arrived on Sunday, but in the evening. It's supposed to be here on Thursday. A real world traveler. smile I wonder if they are just going to hold it for a couple of days to allow it to be on time. smile
And Aliexpress says it's just left Memphis, except it actually arrived on my doorstep yesterday evening. smile
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