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Skywalker spare parts
Mike_Mathis
Top  #1 Print Post
Posted on 01/13/2024 12:25 AM
I decided to pursue finding replacement parts for the SW and I thought the heating element would most likely be the part to need replacing first considering the volatile nature of its workload. I went to a few storefronts on eBay that sell these roasters. First was yamikitchen. They said they couldn't find a record of my roaster purchase which was true so I didn't pursue any further. I then reached out to itop store which is where I purchased mine(even though I purchased it on the Aliexpress website).

I began a dialog with an itop store customer rep through eBay messages who was very nice and fast to respond. It became clear quickly that they were NOT set up to sell replacement parts. The rep stated they didn’t want people to think the roaster was unreliable. However, they understood when I told them my roaster was not broken, but that I just wanted a spare element in the event of failure by the original. The customer rep sent me a link for ordering the part. So, I ordered a replacement element through eBay using PayPal as my funding and it should be shipped in a few days. The cost was US $28. With taxes, it was $30.73. The communications from the itopgroup rep were very professional. I ordered on Jan 10th and the receipt from the itop store states to expect delivery on Feb 5th. They sell two versions, 110V, and 220V elements. If someone decides to order, make sure you order the correct one. As I stated, they are just setting up their end of selling parts for the SW. The messages in my eBay app are from itopgroup.

This is the link I was given to order the 1000W heating element. This does not mean it is the correct one for your roaster. They did post a picture of the element after I asked for one.

https://www.ebay....6103977724

Edit: 1-12-24 Today I received a message on eBay confirming shipment with all information and a tracking number. Everything is top-notch with this company. Even though I am convinced, I must state…YMMV mainly because I realize everyone didn’t purchase from itop.
Edited by renatoa on 01/13/2024 2:08 AM
*Fresh Roast SR800 w/ext tube Phidgets & Artisan
*Kaffelogic Nano 7
*Skywalker V1 (heavily modded)
*2023 BC-2
 
renatoa
Top  #2 Print Post
Posted on 01/13/2024 3:30 AM
If they are so polite and understanding, should we ask them if they are thinking of selling it as a kit? Grin
 
Piotrkurak
Top  #3 Print Post
Posted on 01/13/2024 9:47 AM
The manufacturer was open to anything in lots of 1,000, or so his web page indicated.
 
renatoa
Top  #4 Print Post
Posted on 01/13/2024 11:52 AM
Wondering if all Aliexpress sellers sold even 200...
ITOP is under 100 so far, and is the most active.
The manufacturer should be worried none of the major shops in EU seems interested about this machine.
 
Piotrkurak
Top  #5 Print Post
Posted on 01/14/2024 9:04 AM
Quick google search says reddit and this forum are the sole places discussing the roaster, but that could be my locked down browser stripping results.

Nope, even an unlocked Chrome Google search on wifes machine gives essentially the same results: not much public awareness yet, but this doesn't include Asia
 
renatoa
Top  #6 Print Post
Posted on 01/14/2024 9:54 AM
The most noticeable silence being on HB, where the only reference to Skywalker is ... right ... about Luke Skywalker Grin back in 2018
 
Mike_Mathis
Top  #7 Print Post
Posted on 01/14/2024 1:18 PM
I'm beginning to lose confidence in the controller. I was roasting a 350g batch yesterday in assist mode (trying to get some stock roasted up for this Artic blast we will be experiencing for the next week or so). When it displayed the temp I wanted to drop, I long pressed the "R" button and nothing happened. Solid "R" stayed lit and the heater stayed on. While messing with the controller buttons, I overshot my drop temp by a few °(clearly my fault) and ended up with a 15.7% W/L instead of my intended 14.5% target. The beans look good so no big deal there. I did all kinds of button pushing to get the "P" button area LCD to show COL for cooldown mode to no avail. I also tried to adjust the Filter fan earlier during the roast per instructions. It did not accept my input at all. AAMOF, none of the little [+/-] buttons seem to work. I know the pad is super sensitive and maybe I was "fat-fingering" the dainty little pad. I don't have a clue how to reset this controller during a roast. It was a very frustrating experience.

I felt like I was riding Diablo again(without a saddle).

I'll be glad when I get the Arduino soldered and connected to try my luck with Artisan control. The flux paste I ordered arrived while typing this.

Tying this into the thread title.......This part may need replacing.

Follow up: The controller seems to work just fine now.
Edited by Mike_Mathis on 02/06/2024 10:48 PM
*Fresh Roast SR800 w/ext tube Phidgets & Artisan
*Kaffelogic Nano 7
*Skywalker V1 (heavily modded)
*2023 BC-2
 
renatoa
Top  #8 Print Post
Posted on 01/14/2024 1:34 PM
I am trying to focus on door opening first, then the buttons.
A real drop is a real drop, whatever the heater is doing inside.

In manual mode now I finish roast exclusively using an automatic drop based on temperature. Works flawless.
If I had to grumble about something it would be the fact that there is no automatic cooling start coupled with drop door opening and/or R pressing to finish roast.
 
Mike_Mathis
Top  #9 Print Post
Posted on 01/14/2024 4:04 PM
Except when "R pressing to finish roast" doesn't finish the roast. You are right and I learned a little lesson. Open the door and let it "roast on".
*Fresh Roast SR800 w/ext tube Phidgets & Artisan
*Kaffelogic Nano 7
*Skywalker V1 (heavily modded)
*2023 BC-2
 
HarryDog
Top  #10 Print Post
Posted on 01/14/2024 4:10 PM

Quote

Mike_Mathis wrote:

I'm beginning to lose confidence in the controller. I was roasting a 350g batch yesterday in assist mode (trying to get some stock roasted up for this Artic blast we will be experiencing for the next week or so). When it displayed the temp I wanted to drop, I long pressed the "R" button and nothing happened. Solid "R" stayed lit and the heater stayed on. While messing with the controller buttons, I overshot my drop temp by a few °(clearly my fault) and ended up with a 15.7% W/L instead of my intended 14.5% target. The beans look good so no big deal there. I did all kinds of button pushing to get the "P" button area LCD to show COL for cooldown mode

Tying this into the thread title.......This part may need replacing. I'm sure they will type nice, respectful things........LOL


Hello Mike, the controllers have springs in them, mine is working better (in early tests) What they told me was to reassemble the controller. When you remove the 4 screws look into the gap holding the two cover pieces and see if the springs are in the right place, inside the ring on the plastic top cover. My Power "-" was half out, twist the cover a bit in the direction needed to pop the spring in, watch for others moving as "R" and power on were moving out of place, not sure about "P" for profile but need to see how it performs in an actual roast. Not sure if they can move during shipping or just from quick assembly?
Edited by HarryDog on 01/14/2024 11:42 PM
 
ctjameson
Top  #11 Print Post
Posted on 01/14/2024 10:28 PM

Quote

Mike_Mathis wrote:

I decided to pursue finding replacement parts for the SW and I thought the heating element would most likely be the part to need replacing first considering the volatile nature of its workload. I went to a few storefronts on eBay that sell these roasters. First was yamikitchen. They said they couldn't find a record of my roaster purchase which was true so I didn't pursue any further. I then reached out to itop store which is where I purchased mine(even though I purchased it on the Aliexpress website).

I began a dialog with an itop store customer rep through eBay messages who was very nice and fast to respond. It became clear quickly that they were NOT set up to sell replacement parts. The rep stated they didn’t want people to think the roaster was unreliable. However, they understood when I told them my roaster was not broken, but that I just wanted a spare element in the event of failure by the original. The customer rep sent me a link for ordering the part. So, I ordered a replacement element through eBay using PayPal as my funding and it should be shipped in a few days. The cost was US $28. With taxes, it was $30.73. The communications from the itopgroup rep were very professional. I ordered on Jan 10th and the receipt from the itop store states to expect delivery on Feb 5th. They sell two versions, 110V, and 220V elements. If someone decides to order, make sure you order the correct one. As I stated, they are just setting up their end of selling parts for the SW. The messages in my eBay app are from itopgroup.

This is the link I was given to order the 1000W heating element. This does not mean it is the correct one for your roaster. They did post a picture of the element after I asked for one.

https://www.ebay....6103977724

Edit: 1-12-24 Today I received a message on eBay confirming shipment with all information and a tracking number. Everything is top-notch with this company. Even though I am convinced, I must state…YMMV mainly because I realize everyone didn’t purchase from itop.


Thanks for this. I went ahead and grabbed an extra element myself. I’d really love if they could make a quieter motor as an available upgrade. The drum motor whine is so loud and the worst part of using the roaster hands down.
Skywalkerino - Arduino/artisan powered Ali Roaster
 
renatoa
Top  #12 Print Post
Posted on 01/15/2024 1:32 AM
On my machine the noise was from a metal clips/clamp intended to serve as... ?"damper"? in the "elastic" coupling between motor and drum flange.
The motor itself is as quiet as any microwave oven turntable motor.
Replaced that part with a plastic piece and noise gone.
About 20dB noise reduction, from 80 something to 60 something.
 
ctjameson
Top  #13 Print Post
Posted on 01/15/2024 4:14 PM

Quote

renatoa wrote:

On my machine the noise was from a metal clips/clamp intended to serve as... ?"damper"? in the "elastic" coupling between motor and drum flange.
The motor itself is as quiet as any microwave oven turntable motor.
Replaced that part with a plastic piece and noise gone.
About 20dB noise reduction, from 80 something to 60 something.


Dooooooo ya have a photo of that? And maybe a replacement part number? I'd LOVE to quiet this thing down.

Thanks!
Skywalkerino - Arduino/artisan powered Ali Roaster
 
renatoa
Top  #14 Print Post
Posted on 01/16/2024 3:21 AM
Luckily, recovered some pictures taken at that time, from conversations with other fellows.

Check the the drum flange in the image attached, that one inch diameter cylinder, where a 4-5mm channel is cut.
The motor shaft is flattened to the width of this channel, minus a space where is an elastic clips, probably to absorb shock when a bean stuck the drum somewhere. All that space is filled with black grease, easy to notice it.
The clip is in the second image, and look like it could be broken... not looking to me as a complete piece... but no other parts were found inside the back compartment of the roaster.

That is the source of noise, probably the clips rubs inside the channel, and the back wall acts as a resonator.

Replacement part was diy from a plastic tube like a drinking straw
Tight enough to just wrap the motor shaft without any play and stay there.
Optimally a kind of plastic with low friction as possible.
~~~
renatoa attached the following images:
whatsapp_image_2024-01-16_at_111038.jpeg whatsapp_image_2024-01-16_at_110725.jpeg
 
HarryDog
Top  #15 Print Post
Posted on 01/16/2024 9:54 AM
Hello Renatoa, have you seen any drive attachments for motors with a flat end that would fit in that grove? Was hoping to find something to couple to the motor I ordered up to try.

Thinking a spade bit might work, with a little modification if I can't find anything better.
Edited by HarryDog on 01/16/2024 10:01 AM
 
renatoa
Top  #16 Print Post
Posted on 01/16/2024 10:38 AM
I am afraid there is no space for other attachments, due to the available depth in the roaster back section.
Any intermediate coupling would push the motor further from the flange, and the back cover don't let this happen.
Atm the motor is mounted with screws through his ears, on those threaded raisers that are part of the flange, see the picture. The motor shaft penetrates straight in the grove.
Any other intermediate coupling implies additional raisers, or a complete new mount system.
 
ctjameson
Top  #17 Print Post
Posted on 01/16/2024 10:54 AM
So chatting with the CS rep for ITOP over eBay, I found out they plan to launch a model that’s directly artisan compatible before end of year. Sounds like this thing is about to be even better before we know it.
Skywalkerino - Arduino/artisan powered Ali Roaster
 
renatoa
Top  #18 Print Post
Posted on 01/16/2024 11:14 AM
I read this as "they already stole josh project"... Shock
That's why I am reluctant to offer in the open space any thoughts about further developments of my machine.
 
HarryDog
Top  #19 Print Post
Posted on 01/16/2024 4:19 PM
How do we get the number to the Bat Phone?
Teams meetings?
 
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